One American’s Journey Through the Outback

hero media
When she came to Australia for a five month exchange program, Liz Cameron had no idea that camping her way from Alice Springs to Uluru (and getting stranded there) would be one of the highlights of her entire trip.

The Outback, Australia’s famous Red Centre, calls to mind quite a few images. Vast open land. Deep red dirt. Kangaroos. But even with these preconceived notions of what the Outback would be like, I had no idea what to expect. As a girl who’d lived in Florida her entire life, the most I’d ever seen in the way of a desert before I came to Australia for five months as an international student was a bit of sand and some cacti in Arizona. So with a small duffel bag, pillow, eighteen other university students from the U.S. and four chaperones, I boarded a plane at Sydney Airport, completely unprepared for the experience that lay before me

 

As we prepared to touch down in Alice Springs, the first thing I noticed about the Outback was its vastness. Even from thousands of feet up in the air, that red earth seemed to stretch on forever. After making our way through baggage claim to pick up our swags, sleeping bags, and various other camping supplies, we packed ourselves into four vans and were on our way.

 

The night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia.

 

After about a two-hour drive, we arrived at our first destination, a campsite in Ormiston Gorge. With only two or three hours of daylight left, we hastened to take a brief hike through the gorge. After making our way through some breathtaking areas, and of course pausing for numerous photo ops with rock wallabies, we headed back to our home for the night. The only part of the night that didn’t go smoothly was when one of the other students and I had to trek down a rocky path to fill a tub with hot water from the showers so that we could wash the dishes we’d used during dinner. Making our way back down that path in the pitch-dark night with the heavy tub semi-balanced between us was a quick initiation into the world of “roughing it". Other than that, the night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia. The next morning, we all woke up early, packed up camp, and settled in for a bumpy ride down long dirt roads. Our destination on day two? Kings Canyon.

 

When we arrived, we went directly to the canyon. After having lunch in the luxuriously paved car park (we were all feeling a bit battered after the less-than-smooth drive) we met our guides for the next two days, Micah and Patrick. As two highly respected members of the local Aboriginal community, Micah and Patrick knew just about everything there was to know about Kings Canyon. After a quick history lesson about the gorge, we embarked on a three-hour-long hike that was gruelling to say the least. They don’t call the first part of the hike, where you have to climb a staggering number of steep rock steps, “Heart Attack Hill" for nothing, take my word for it. With the hardest part of the hike behind us and our legs more or less intact, we embarked on what would end up being one of my favourite memories from the trip. Micah and Patrick told us some amazing stories about the gorge and showed us native plants that could be used for medicinal purposes. The views were breathtaking, the scenery some of the most beautiful I’d ever seen. By the time we got back to the car park, I was exhausted, thrilled, and had a memory card full of photos. Little did I know, the night would be just as exciting as the day had been.

 

After taking much-needed showers and eating inordinately large servings of dinner, we sat around the campfire and then received an unexpected visit from Micah and Patrick, who had brought us a special treat. They had gone hunting and found a joey in the pouch of a kangaroo they’d killed, put in Micah’s backpack, and brought it to our campsite where it would be spending the night with twenty-three more-than-willing babysitters. After agreeing that the joey should be called Bianca (after the character from The Rescuers Down Under, of course) we took turns holding her in her backpack-turned-pouch before splitting into two groups: those that wanted to go hunting with Micah and Patrick and those that wanted to stay at the campsite. I decided to stay at the campsite and was quickly designated as Bianca’s official caretaker for the night. So after the newly experienced hunters returned, I settled into my sleeping bag and swag (we stopped setting up tents after the first night because we couldn’t resist sleeping under that beautiful night sky) with Bianca in tow. Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The twenty-three of us (twenty-four with Bianca) piled into the vans and drove the short distance to Ulpanyali, the community where Micah and Patrick live. While there, we met other Aboriginals who live at Ulpanyali and showed us how to throw spears, cook a kangaroo, and told us some more stories about their culture and the area. After spending several hours at Ulpanyali, we gave Bianca back to Micah, who took her to a nearby kangaroo reserve, and said goodbye to our new friends. Now, finally, it was time to go to Uluru.

 

Even though we’d spent the entire afternoon crammed into the vans, we were all smiles when we finally caught sight of Uluru in the distance. We went straight into the park and soaked up as much of the massive rock as we could. After watching the sun set there, we went to set up camp for the last time. We would be staying at a campsite near the park for the next two nights, since we had agreed that Uluru was where we wanted to spend the majority of our trip.

 

Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The next morning, we rose before the sun and went back to Uluru. Bob Randall, who most people just call “Uncle Bob", invited us to watch the sunrise from a beautiful lookout point in the community where he lives. Uncle Bob is a very inspiring Aboriginal man who, as a member of the Stolen Generation himself, works to help those who were also taken from their families. Uncle Bob also invited us to take part in a traditional sunrise ceremony and then go back to his house for breakfast. Needless to say, it was an incredible experience. We spent the rest of the day exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta, trying not to think about the fact that we were supposed to fly back to Sydney the next day. Little did we know, Qantas had other plans for us.

 

We showed up at the Uluru airport the next morning only to be told that Qantas had us listed as flying out of Alice Springs rather than Uluru and informed us that we would have to drive back to Alice Springs and fly out two days later. Under any other circumstances, we would have been euphoric at the chance to stay in the Outback for an extra two days, but we were all out of clean clothes and weren’t sure how much more bouncing in the back of the vans we could handle. So with dirty socks and exasperated sighs, we packed the vans yet again and began the long drive back to Alice Springs.

 

Over the next two days, we amused ourselves by exploring the town, going to the incredible market held there, visiting a wildlife park and hanging out at the campsite (which had a laundry facility, God bless it). When we showed up at the airport this time, our group reservation was accurate and we filed onto the plane that would take us back home to Sydney. We were exhausted from the whirlwind of the past week, our clothes were permanently stained red, but we were ecstatic about the experience we had just had. I’ve had the opportunity to see many incredible things during my time in Australia, but the Outback is definitely on the top of the list, lost flight tickets and all.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Australian Traveller

Australian Traveller

View profile and articles
hero media

Why you should visit these iconic Tassie destinations

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Tasmania’s crisp clear air, misty mountains, lakes and ancient forests beckon as winter approaches.

    Travelling in the off season has many benefits, none more so in Tasmania, where it’s uncrowded and uncomplicated. Ease into winter with a getaway that spells relaxing with a glass of wine or local whisky, bathing under the stars, or gazing at reflections in pristine waters. Add fireside dining, wilderness walks, after-dark gallery visits and plenty of history and you’ve got a curated winter escape designed to make travelling in the quieter months of the year even more rewarding. NRMA Parks and Resorts’ Off Season Signature Packages across Tasmania (plus 10 per cent off for members) make all these things possible.

    Cosy up at Cradle Mountain

    two women walking aorund Cradle Mountain Hotel NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Immerse into the wilderness at Cradle Mountain Hotel.

    For an alpine wilderness experience like no other, chose Cradle Mountain Hotel for a winter getaway. You may even wake up to gently falling snow. Explore nearby Dove Lake, gaze at Cradle Mountain is and listen to the gush of waterfalls.

    As Cradle Mountain works its charm, slow down to enjoy the crisp alpine air away from the hustle of the city. There are no crowds here, just serenity and the chance to recalibrate.

    Cradle Mountain’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast daily, a bottle of wine (Retreat rom bookings only) and off-season dessert with dinner. Then sip on mulled wine as you wander through the Wilderness Gallery admiring the work of Tasmanian artists.

    Finding the flavours of Freycinet

    aerial of Freycinet Lodge NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Stay at the only accommodation within beautiful Freycinet National Park.

    As the only accommodation within Freycinet National Park, among the many reasons for staying at Freycinet Lodge is its easy access to stunning Wineglass Bay, Mt Amos and Honeymoon Bay.

    By day it’s the place for communing with nature, taking hikes in some of Tasmania’s most beautiful locations. By night, savour the regional seasonal flavours of the east coast, sip mulled wine to keep out the chill and gaze up at the star-studded skies. This is slow coastal indulgence at its best.

    Freycinet Lodge’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast daily, a hosted Flavours of the East Coast food and wine tasting experience and mulled wine under the stars, or beside the fire, after dinner.

    Escape to lakeside Pumphouse Point

    interior of pumphouse point NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Stay cosy while looking out onto Lake St Clair.

    Set on the edge of beautiful Lake St Clair in native bushland in the heart of Tasmania’s Central Highlands, Pumphouse Point has launched a new era for its boutique accommodation with the opening of two new luxury retreat rooms last October.

    Each of the trio of rooms are thoughtfully designed, with an indoor fireplace and deep-soak bathtub, both perfect for a winter escape. This retreat offers dining and an expanded collection of hosted experiences, including a guided tour to learn more about this historic place, chocolate tastings and whisky tasting from local artisans – with more to come later in the season.

    Borrow an e-bike and explore on your own, throw a line in, head off for a hike in the ancient forests that surround the lake, book a relaxing massage, or just settle in for an evening by the fire as the lake works its own magic.

    Pumphouse Point’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, breakfast, larder lunch and dinner, a bottle of wine with dinner each night, and a chocolate or whisky tasting experience, as well as two $50 massage vouchers.

    Slow down in Strahan Village

    aerial of boat going through strahan tasmania
    Explore UNESCO world heritage wilderness.

    As the gateway to UNESCO world heritage wilderness, picturesque Strahan Village is the ideal base for exploring Tassie’s west coast. With a wide range of accommodation choices, from cosy waterfront colonial-style cottages to hotel rooms with sweeping views over Macquarie Harbour, it’s the perfect place for slow travel.

    Join Gordon River Cruises to explore ancient wilderness and magical reflections on the Gordon River, wander through the village at your own pace or hire a bike to discover local secrets and attractions, including the iconic West Coast Wilderness Railway . Thrill-seekers can hire taboggans to hit the towering Henty Dunes.

    Strahan’s Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, a Gordon River cruise for two and mulled wine at Hamer’s Bistro .

    Delve into history in Port Arthur

    interior of glamping tent at Port Arthur Holiday Park NRMA Parks and Resorts
    Glamp under the stars at Port Arthur Holiday Park.

    Spend your evenings glamping under the stars and your days stepping back in time as you explore the captivating stories of the World Heritage listed Port Arthur Historic Site. Port Arthur Holiday Park is the perfect base for exploring the Tasman Peninsula and uncovering the stories of Australia’s colonial and convict past.

    Surrounded by nature and history, this off-season escape has the all the makings of an unforgettable getaway. All glamping tents are heated to keep you warm during the off-season months when the nights get a little cooler, and have private bathrooms. Stargazing tents have the added luxury of an outdoor bath on the verandah.

    The Port Arthur Off Season Signature Package includes two or more nights’ accommodation, a Port Arthur Historic Site tour for two and 10 per cent discount for dining at local restaurant On The Bay during your stay.

    Start planning an unforgetable trip to Tasmania with NRMA Resorts at nrmaparksandresorts.com.au.