Single Minded – Travel ideas for the single traveller

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If you want to travel footloose and fancy free, and wouldn’t mind meeting other people travelling footloose and fancy freer, David Whitley done the research for you. The rest is in your hands . . .

Party then relax in Byron Bay

The local council in Byron Bay is probably the most fiercely protectionist in the country, banning pretty much any development as they try to stop a mass migration to Australia’s most easterly town. In fact, it’s a wonder that colour TV was begrudgingly allowed to slip through the net.

 

Despite all efforts though, Byron is a closet party town. It’s far less in-your-face than the Gold Coast, but the likes of Cheeky Monkey’s (115 Jonson Street, [02] 6685 5886), Cocomangas (32 Jonson Street, [02] 6685 8493) and La La Land (6 Lawson Street, [02] 6680 7070) are always full of people drinking and dancing. Often on tables.

 

If you’re after somewhere for a blow-out with a group of mates, but without being swathed in neon, there are few better places. Paradoxically, Byron is also very chilled out. Hippies roam the town like stray dogs telling people they’re beautiful, and the beaches are fabulous. For those considering heading up alone, it’s also a major stop-off on the backpacker circuit, which means that at any one time there’ll be thousands of people travelling independently who are fairly open to meeting someone new.

Take the ultimate road trip across the Nullarbor

The advantage of travelling without a family or partner in tow is that you can take on the areas of the country that are as appetising to them as a pickled herring, custard and chilli powder sandwich. The Nullarbor Plain, which covers much of the way from Port Augusta in South Australia to Perth in WA, is definitely one of those places. To some it’s awesome, mind-stretching, peaceful solitude; to others it’s abject purgatorial tedium. Either way it’s one of the ultimate road trips, whether as a bonding experience with whomever you can trick into coming along, or as a solo excursion to clear the head.

 

There are two routes available: the more scenic is along the south coast, where there are a fair few coastal towns to stop at; the more adventurous is straight through the plain, where it’s just spinifex and the occasional roadhouse until you get to the frontier WA mining town of Kalgoorlie.

 

One option is the Indian Pacific train (13 21 47 or www.trainways.com.au), on which you’ll at least come into contact with other humans. It takes 38.5 hours from Adelaide to Perth and costs from $309. To get the real deal, though, you need to drive it – in which case you’ll need plenty of time, plenty of fuel, plenty of water and more than one CD. The Nullarbor is one place you do not want to get stranded, especially with The Eagles on a constant loop.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Join the masses in Sydney

While many of Sydney’s attractions are rather overrated for the single traveller, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better city over Christmas and New Year. For a start, it has become a focal point for travelling orphans from across the globe on Christmas Day. Overstretched surf rescue teams (hundreds had to be pulled from the sea on December 25, 2003) have seen alcohol bans brought in on Bondi, Coogee and Manly beaches, but a we’re-going-to-have-fun-family-or-no-family atmosphere still prevails. As for the New Year’s Eve festivities, you’ll probably be sharing the harbour with more than a million others, so it’s a case of picking your spot; many are family-orientated, but some are less so. Embarkation Park in Potts Point is an excellent example – it has great views, live music and you can bring alcohol in.

Head to the Red Centre

The major sting of travelling alone – especially on an extended trip – is paying double price for accommodation. For a ten-day trip from Melbourne to central Australia and back, the price can get prohibitively expensive unless you rope someone else into sharing a room. However, some companies do cater for the singles market, and as long as you’re prepared to share a twin room with a stranger of the same gender, you’ll be able to get underway without needing to bother the bank manager. Solo Traveller ([03] 9859 9521 or www.solotraveller.com.au) is running a week-and-a-half’s jaunt to Uluru, taking in the likes of King’s Canyon, opal cutting in Coober Pedy, and wino heaven in the Barossa Valley on the way. It leaves on December 28 and costs $909pp.

Spend Christmas in Tasmania

If you’re looking for a more upmarket tour for single travellers, then Single Travel Connections ([08] 8293 6988 or www.singlestravel.com.au) is running a nine-day trip to Tassie from Melbourne. With guaranteed single rooms, luxury transport and quality meals that could sink many a sturdy ship, this isn’t the adventurous, stripped-back option. However, it does include many of Tasmania’s highlights, including Lake St Clair National Park, the penguin colony at Bicheno and the world’s longest single-span chairlift at Cataract Gorge. It’s pricey at $3285, and it can certainly be done cheaper independently. However, company is guaranteed.

Go on a surf camp

At least 80 percent of people have an image of surfers as no-good lazy wasters, happy to spend their days frolicking around in the ocean at taxpayers’ expense. The other 20 percent have actually tried it and are either doing it or are deeply envious of those who can. A few days off from work during the festive period offers the perfect chance to join that minority – although the whole long-blond-hair, excessively-slow-drawl-and-thongs thing is strictly optional. Surfing lessons can be taken all over the country – try Surfing Australia ([02] 6674 9888 or www.surfingaustralia.com) to find a local surf school. However, to make a proper holiday of it, get some serious practice in, meet new people and see some virtually untouched coastline at the same time, going to camp for a couple of days is far more satisfactory.

 

If you’re prepared to really get deep down and dirty with Mama Nature on the west coast, sleeping in a swag under the stars, try The Wedge Island Surf Company ([08] 9336 6773 or www.wedgeislandsurfco.com.au). Their two-day surfari to excellent beginners’ breaks 90 minutes north of Perth costs from $179. Another option is a five-day Sydney to Byron Bay (and back) surfing expedition. Waves Surf School (1800 851 101 or www.wavessurfschool.com.au) does one for $479.

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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

    Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

    Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
    The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

    The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

    Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
    Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

    Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

    Mt Ida Eco Cabin
    Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

    A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

    Three Dams Estate
    Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

    Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

    The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

    Silver Spoon winery
    The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

    Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

    Heathcote Wine Hub
    Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

    Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

    Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

    Envy gins
    Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Getting there

    It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

    Staying there

    Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

    Eating there

    French dishes at Chauncy
    Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

    At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

    Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

    Playing there

    Sanguine Estate
    Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

    At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.