The Ghan versus Indian Pacific – which train to choo-choose?

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The Ghan or Indian Pacific? It’s a tough choice between Australia’s two most epic rail holidays. No fear, Megan Arkinstall (The Ghan) and Steve Madgwick (Indian Pacific) will help you decide which train journey is best for you.

Which route is best for you?

The 2979-kilometre, 54-hour Ghan journey heads straight up the Red Centre from Adelaide to Darwin (and vice versa). It takes three days and two nights north-bound (four days and three nights south-bound).

 

The 65-hour Indian Pacific trip traverses the continent, from Sydney to Perth (via Adelaide), covering cross sections of many and varied regions including the famed Nullarbor Plain crossing. The 4352-kilometre journey takes three nights and four days.

What’s the physical difference between the two trains?

Besides the signage and livery, very little actually. Adelaide-based Great Southern Rail operates both The Ghan and Indian Pacific so the carriage and restaurant car interiors are identical (a carriage on The Ghan route may be on the Indian Pacific the following week).

 

The locomotives are different colours – Red for The Ghan, blue and yellow for the Indian Pacific – and external carriage signage is interchangeable.

The question of price – how much?

There are two classes on the trains: Gold and Platinum services. Indian Pacific fares (Sydney-Perth)  start at $2269 (Gold) and $3919 (Platinum). Adelaide to Darwin on The Ghan starts at $1789 (Gold) and $3319 (Platinum) – see Great Southern Rail for fares in the opposite direction.

 

These are one-way fares so you will need to allow for a return airfare and at least a night’s accommodation at the other end too.

 

Book six months in advance to get a 20 per cent discount off Gold class.

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Where do they stop?

The Indian Pacific stops at Broken Hill in outback NSW (where you have the chance to travel out to the sandstone sculptures of the Living Desert Reserve) and includes either an evening’s side trip to the Barossa Valley (or a walking tour of Adelaide). There are two stops along the Nullarbor; a whistle-stop rest at the tiny town of Cook and a trackside feast at Rawlinna, an expansive and remote sheep station.

 

A stop-off at the quirky South Australian town of Coober Pedy (south-bound only) has recently been added to The Ghan’s classic Red Centre stop at Alice Springs (where you can go for a camel ride and experience some local indigenous culture) and Katherine, where there is an option for a boat cruise through Katherine Gorge.

The view: Which scenery will I prefer?

The Indian Pacific warms up through the windy, dramatic bush-scape of Sydney’s Blue Mountains and then flashes past tiny towns into the NSW outback. The view turns a little more fecund as the train heads past Adelaide (and near to the Barossa Valley) before the Nullarbor pancake begins. Greenery returns as you coast into Western Australia’s verdant Avon Valley, followed by the ’burbs of Perth.

 

On The Ghan (from Adelaide) rolling green hills flatten into wine country and farmland, then dry rugged terrain and the jagged peaks on the Flinders Ranges. The rural landscape out this way is marked by abandonment: farming apparatus, crumbling buildings.

 

Keep an eye out for the small Iron Man monument between Tarcoola and Alice Springs – which marks the one millionth concrete sleeper laid in the track – and Finke River, which depending on season can be just a dry sandy river bed lined by red river gums. By the time the train enters Katherine, lush green foliage intersperses the arid land and then you know you have arrived in the tropics.

Who are your fellow passengers?

Obviously every trip is different, but as a rule there will be more of an Australian contingent aboard the Indian Pacific whereas The Ghan attracts more foreign tourists attracted to the Red Centre outback experience and a taste of indigenous culture.

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Gold versus platinum class

Besides cost, the biggest difference between the classes is space (a Platinum cabin is about twice the size of the Gold) – and size can matter over a several-day train journey. The bed in Platinum class can fold into a double whereas in Gold class you get two single fold-downs.

 

The extra premium of Platinum gets you a larger en-suite (the Gold class one is little snug), bigger windows, free transfers (within 50 kilometres of the terminal), more luggage allowance and access to the Platinum Club Car where there are more comprehensive wine and food options.

The bottom line – Battle of the Highlights

Megan: Alice Springs, a town of extraordinary character and intrinsically Australian landscapes of deep-red dirt and sage-green scrub. Here we enjoyed a trek at Pyndan Camel Tracks with the majestic MacDonnell Ranges as our backdrop.

 

Steve: Crossing the Nullarbor, indeed the whole country is a highlight in itself. A traditional trackside outback lamb roast dinner under the stars at Rawlinna, a seriously remote sheep station on the Nullarbor, will blow your senses – especially the tastebuds.

 

More details: For more information on The Ghan or the Indian Pacific see Great Southern Rail

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The secret Sydney suite life: a luxury under-the-radar stay right on the harbour

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    This winter, these secret Sydney harbour suites are the staycation we’ve been looking for.

    Whether it’s the crisscrossing ferries or the white sails of the Opera House rising out of blue depths, Australia’s biggest city lives for its harbour. But while locals might glance at that watery expanse on their daily commute across the Bridge, it can still be hard to truly connect with Sydney’s maritime soul. The secret: seeing the harbour eye-to-eye, right at water level. And what better place to submerge yourself in that energy than sleeping there? That’s where Pier One Sydney Harbour comes in (and with new all-inclusive bed and breakfast benefits, there’s even more to love).

    All-inclusive VIP benefits

    Who Is Elijah Amenities at Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Book in for the all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The hard truth is that it will be very difficult to tear yourself away from your ultra-luxurious harbour home-away-from-home to explore the city. If you want to make leaving even harder, opt for Pier One’s all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The Bed and Breakfast with Suite Benefits package turns up the volume on what is already the ultimate staycation, with complimentary valet parking, daily breakfast for two and turndown service. The biggest perk? Enjoy a bottle of French champagne every day during your whole stay

    Pier One Sydney Harbour

    Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Step into a piece of history with all the modern comforts. (Credit: Dave Wheeler)

    The five-star Pier One Sydney Harbour is quite literally old Sydney through and through. Built on what was once a working cargo wharf and the passenger terminal for those heading to the North Shore before the bridge was constructed, the heritage building sits right between the tangle of cobblestones, pubs and alleyways of The Rocks and the historic docking zone of Walsh Bay – at the centre of the city’s old sea trade.

    If knowing the hotel’s history isn’t enough to get your sea-longing going, the interior design certainly will. As soon as you step up to the concierge desk in the lobby of the restored building – which underwent a $15 million redevelopment in 2019 – you’re immersed in Sydney’s seafaring tale. Weathered wood panelling and white marble floors surround you, while loop lighting installations hover above the bar island just beyond, ringed with stools ready for intimate, martini-tinted conversations. Steel rivets and timber beams speak to its past, and glass-walled views anchor you firmly in the present-day life on the harbour.

    Pier One Suites

    Pier One Sydney Harbour admiral suite
    Enjoy incredible views from your suite.

    Across the 189 rooms and suites built on and over the water, the maritime theme continues. Sculptural aged brass fittings, exposed girders, colour schemes that evoke shifting currents, and mirrors that reflect ripples that – depending on your booking – sit just metres from your pillow.

    United on theme yet unique in set-up, each room or suite is different. On the ground floor, dog-friendly rooms with direct access to the pier are all prepped for pampered pups, while others have views and even balconies overlooking Walsh Bay, the Bridge and the Harbour.

    But the 19 suites step things up even more. Gaze out through floor-to-ceiling windows, or get even closer. Your private balcony is made for sipping a Nespresso coffee on as the sun comes up – or soaking in the bathtub of the Admiral Suite on the deck, a drink from the locally stocked mini bar in hand. This mini bar was recently completely transformed, so you have more Aussie favourites to choose from, including alcohol and snacks.

    Dining at Pier One

    Pier Bar Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Settle in for an afternoon of good drinks and views.

    Once you’re checked in, start your afternoon with a spritz at PIER BAR – or arrive by boat via the private pontoon if the occasion calls for it – and settle into one of the cabanas. Weekdays bring Happy Hour (or ‘sunset hour’ at Pier One); weekends bring the DJs. After an even sweeter experience? The Everyday Creamery and Matcha Kiosk is slinging mango and vanilla soft serve – classic and those spiked with Midori and gin alike.

    PIER Dining is an ode to contemporary Australian flavours across the terrace, pier and dining room. On its seafood-leaning menu are Sydney rock oysters from Merimbula, potato scallops with salmon roe and crème fraîche, chicken with melting sundried tomato butter, vodka rigatoni with Shark Bay prawns. And the ‘Pierlova’ – that’s pavlova with chocolate, dulce de leche and banana is worth saving room for. Make sure to ask for the wine list – it’s 100 per cent Australian drops.

    Around town

    luna park, sydney opera house and sydney harbour bridge
    Explore the neighbourhood during your stay. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    If you’re strong enough to polish off just one last pastry from the breakfast buffet and walk out the door, we applaud you. Luna Park across the harbour beckons with its wide grin, while a glance upward might spur you to climb the Bridge’s famous iron arches. The Opera House – just across Circular Quay from the Museum of Contemporary Art – sings out for a concert.

    You’ll want to book ahead for those hot-ticket performances at Sydney Theatre Company and Sydney Dance Company, just a few minutes’ walk south of the hotel. Ten minutes further brings you to the waterfront bars, restaurants and clubs of Barangaroo, or the karaoke, gardens and dim sum of Chinatown further afield.

    Keep the mellow of your weekend getaway going with a stop at Barangaroo Reserve, watching the yachts go by – all before returning for that Sydney sundowner at Pier One.

    Ready to make that Pier One stay a reality? Book the ultimate Sydney staycation at pieronesydneyharbour.com.au