Chris Smith heads west to his favourite stretch of sand, receives a decidedly chilly reception in a Sydney bar, and finds a new way to camp out in style.

More than 600km north of Cairns, if you’ve made it this far, your Marine Park voyage is regrettably almost over.

Beginning at Townsville and spilling northwards beyond Cape York into Torres Strait, the emphasis in the northern reaches is on the vast range of experiences, with everything from five star celebrity hangouts to deserted Robinson Crusoe-style outposts. The choice is yours.  By Fiona Harper

The spirit of Kokoda – courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice – reverberates through the forests of the Gold Coast hinterland each year during the gruelling Kokoda Challenge. Stu Lloyd explores the unique headspace you need to be in to take on one of Australia’s toughest endurance events.

Perched on the banks of the Hawkesbury river north of Sydney, AT wines and dines along the waterline at Berowra Waters Inn for a dining experience that, if possible, seems overshadowed by the surrounds. By Lisa Perkovic who, like all AT reviewers,  paid her own way and visited anonymously.

Few Australians realise the vast extent of tangible WWII history still visible today. AT sets out to separate fact from fiction, while providing you with your own key to the living remnants of this global conflict on Australian soil.