This little-known coastal track is hiding in plain sight. 

Tucked between South West Rocks and the sleepy surf hamlet of Hat Head lies a walking trail so wild and scenic, it cuts through not one but two coastal NSW national parks – and somehow still flies under the radar. 

The Smoky Cape Range Walking Track is the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned your morning coffee. This 5.5-kilometre one-way track winds through a ridgeline flanked by Arakoon and Hat Head national parks, offering sweeping ocean views, rugged terrain, rainforest pockets and a side of convict history for good measure. 

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone – this little-known walk is one of the most underrated on the Mid North Coast. 

Two national parks, one unforgettable walk 

Starting near the historic Overshot Dam at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park, the trail ascends through coastal heathlands, rainforests and grassy woodlands. As you traverse the ridge, you’ll transition into Hat Head National Park, where the landscape shifts to lush rainforests and expansive ocean vistas. The trail culminates at the iconic Smoky Cape Lighthouse, perched dramatically above the Pacific Ocean. 

This walk is not just a physical journey but also a cultural one. The land holds deep significance for the Dunghutti people, the Traditional Custodians of the area. Walking through these parks offers a chance to reflect on the rich Aboriginal heritage and the natural beauty that has been preserved for generations. 

Wildlife and seasonal spectacles 

Depending on the season, the trail offers different natural spectacles. In spring, the heathlands burst into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers, attracting a variety of bird species.  

From May to November, the cliffs become prime vantage points for whale watching, as humpback and southern right whales migrate along the coast. Keep an eye out for wallabies, echidnas and the occasional goanna basking in the sun. 

A lighthouse steeped in history

Upon reaching the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, you’re greeted by one of the tallest lighthouses in NSW, built in 1891. This heritage-listed structure offers not only a sweeping 360-degree view of Hat Head National Park and the wild coast below but also a glimpse into maritime history.  

For those interested in delving deeper, the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the lighthouse. Led by knowledgeable rangers, these 45-minute tours provide insights into the lighthouse’s history and operations. Tours are scheduled on select dates throughout the year, and bookings are essential.  

Even better? There’s a car park nearby, so if you want to do the track one way, you can arrange a pick-up at the lighthouse end and make it a point-to-point hike instead of an out-and-back. 

Stay a little longer 

To fully immerse yourself in the area’s charm, consider staying at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. This historic accommodation offers both bed and breakfast and self-contained options, providing a unique opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse precinct. Situated high above Smoky Beach, the cottages are perfect for whale watching in winter and enjoying the tranquillity of the national park year-round. 

What to know before you go

This is a Grade 4 trail, meaning it’s best suited to fit walkers with some bushwalking experience. You’ll want decent footwear, plenty of water and a charged phone with offline maps. 

There’s not much signage, so download a trail map ahead of time or use AllTrails. It’s around two to three hours one-way if you take your time to stop at the scenic points (and you should). 

Note: Limited mobile reception in some areas; plan accordingly. 

Make a weekend of it 

South West Rocks is the perfect base for this walk, with beachfront holiday parks, cosy cabins and local cafes to refuel in after your hike. Add in a sunset swim at Trial Bay or a visit to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of Trial Bay Gaol, and you’ve got yourself one very memorable nature escape. 

Not many walks let you cross between two national parks, pass a heritage lighthouse and feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. But this one does. And it’s right there, hiding in plain sight.