A Magical Kosciuszko Alpine Way Road Trip

Twist and turn along the Kosciuszko Alpine Way for a journey steeped in mythology and untold adventure.

The Kosciuszko Alpine Way spectacularly snakes its way up and over the Snowy Mountains, the highest section of the Great Dividing Range, through magnificent landscapes of mountain forests mythologised by Banjo Paterson.

Steeped in intrigue and a storied history that stretches back millennia, this iconic NSW road trip is a well-trodden path. Every summer for thousands of years, Aboriginal people would cross tribal boundaries and travel the Alpine Way to the high country to meet for corroborees, trading, marriages and more, and to feast on bogong moths.

More recently, it was used as a drover’s stock route and for the literally groundbreaking Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme that you’ll learn about en route. And although it’s only just over 100 kilometres in length, squiggling between Jindabyne and Khancoban near the Victorian border, the Alpine Way is a route to be savoured.

Stop off along the way to walk to Australia’s highest peak, immerse yourself in adventure, or simply sit back, inhale the fresh alpine air and sip a crisp Kosciuszko Pale Ale or snow-pure local schnapps. Our action-packed itinerary covers the Alpine Way’s very best bits.

Start at Cooma

Your journey begins at the gateway to the Snowy Mountains in the alpine town of Cooma, just over four hours by car from Sydney and 1.5 hours’ drive from Canberra. It’s an ideal spot to launch yourself headfirst into the adventure of the region and learn about its monumental heritage.

Kick off your Alpine Way road trip at the Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre – with its models, interactive exhibits and historical photographs – to learn the story of a modern engineering wonder: the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme.

a kid exploring an interactive exhibit at Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre — Kids will enjoy the interactive art and science installations. (Image: Destination NSW)

One of the most complex integrated water and hydro-electric power systems in the world, designed to divert water from the Snowy River westwards beneath the Great Dividing Range to drought-proof parts of NSW and Victoria, the scheme plays out in real-time from Jindabyne to Khancoban.

an exhibit inside Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre and Cafe, Cooma — Touring Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre is a truly immersive experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

For a fresh start in the morning, kip overnight at boutique Nebula Motel , a cosy hosted stay on one of Cooma’s historic streets or several campgrounds.

And if you’re visiting on the third Sunday of the month, drop into Centennial Park, right off the main road, where you’ll find the monthly Cooma Rotary Markets stocked with local artisan products and food stalls.

Cooma to Jindabyne

Distance: 62 kilometres
Travel time: About 45 minutes

Head west from Cooma along Kosciuszko Road until you reach Jindabyne. The moment you crest the hill just outside of town and see stunning Lake Jindabyne pool out before you is the first of many ‘wow’ moments you’ll experience along the Alpine Way.

Lake Jindabyne is stunning from every angle. (Image: Destination NSW)

This glassy expanse forms part of a major dam created in the mid-1960s as part of the Snowy Mountains Scheme, drowning old Jindabyne in the process. Today the town sits scenically around the lake’s foreshore and, with its crisp mountain air, serves up outdoor adventure and indulgence in equal measure.

sunset views over Lake Jindabyne in the Snowy Mountains. — Fiery sunset hues unfurl over Lake Jindabyne. (Image: Destination NSW)

Join fellow adventurers fuelling up for the day at the buzzing Birchwood Cafe , where nourishing breakfasts include avo toast stacked with feta, tomato salsa, pickled onion, radish, pomegranate and peanut dukkah, dippy eggs with fried zucchini soldiers and a vegan brekkie wrap of pulled marinated jackfruit, tofu scramble, pickled zucchini, spinach, vegan mayo and mustard.

a family biking along Lake Jindabyne, Snowy Mountains — Stroll around Lake Jindabyne on two wheels.

Then hire a bike from Sacred Ride and cycle scenic local trails or spend the morning climbing and abseiling the ‘Jindy’ Rock at Lake Jindabyne with boutique adventure-tour company K7 Adventures before settling in for a well-earned drink and a classic pub meal overlooking the lake at the Banjo Paterson Inn . And don’t forget to stop in at Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe to sample their quality takes on the sweet stuff.

the exterior of Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe, SNowy Mountains — Make a pitstop at Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe.

Jindabyne to Thredbo in Kosciuszko National Park

Distance: 21 kilometres
Travel time: 20 minutes

Before hitting the Alpine Way proper, enjoy a quintessential Jindabyne experience with a stay at one of its superlative accommodation offerings such as Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa, west of town in the Thredbo Valley.

kayaking along Lake Crackenback at sunset — Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa is perched on the lake.

It boasts two excellent onsite eateries, Cuisine Restaurant & Bar and Alpine Larder, as well as a day spa and all manner of outdoor activities including mountain bike and walking trails, Segway tours and guided fly-fishing tours. The 60-hectare alpine oasis is peppered with lake views and mountain chalets and makes for the ultimate retreat for a night or two.

a rustic bedroom at Tinkersfield Hut — Check into a charming rustic hut at Tinkersfield.

Alternatively, check into nearby Tinkersfield , a more intimate affair secluded in the Crackenback Valley with a curated choice of rustic-chic, high-country hideaways – think antique timber, clawfoot bathtubs and open fireplaces – including the one-bedroom Field Huts and two-bedroom Barnhouse and Post Office.

a woman walking along Ram Ranges Head, Kosciuszko National Park — Walk along massive rocks at Ram Ranges Head in Kosciuszko National Park. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Back on the road and you’re on the Alpine Way, cruising into Kosciuszko National Park with its pine-clad ridges as immortalised in Banjo Paterson’s iconic poem The Man from Snowy River.

frost over the vegetation along the Mount Kosciuszko Summit walk — Find frost-covered vegetation along the Mount Kosciuszko Summit walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Keep a look out for a diverse range of farm animals and wildlife along both sides of the road. Upon our last visit, we spotted emus, cows, alpacas, horses, kangaroos, wombats and deer on the one single drive. Incredible.

a scenic road trip along Alpine Way, Thredbo in the Snowy Mountains — Journey through the Snowy Mountains. (Image: Alexandra Adoncello; Destination NSW)

A classic winter destination that’s home to the ski fields of Thredbo, Perisher and Charlotte’s Pass, as well as Australia’s highest mountain, Kosciuszko reveals a whole different side in the warmer months.

skiers riding the chair lifts at Charlotte Pass Ski Resort in the Snowy Mountains — Lift off from the snowy grounds at Charlotte Pass Ski Resort. (Image: Destination NSW)

And the ultimate way to experience it is via the Kosciuszko Chairlift. Lifting off from Thredbo Valley Terminal, this thrilling joyride sweeps up the mountain for 560 vertical metres, offering breathtaking views of the national park and a gateway to Thredbo’s alpine hiking trails. But before you get exploring, hop off and treat yourself to lunch with a view at Eagles Nest, Australia’s highest restaurant. The menu is always evolving but its pizzas remain consistently delicious.

friends enjoying their lunch at Eagles Nest — Enjoy lunch with a view at Eagles Nest.

Day walks include a trail to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, the highest peak in the country. Breathing fresh alpine air, you’ll pass granite outcrops and alpine meadows coloured with wildflowers come summer, until you’re 2228 metres above sea level with 360-degree views of the Snowy Mountains – and a true sense of wonder at being at the top of Australia.

a woman enjoying the scenic views across Kosciuszko National Park — Bask in the cold mountain air at Kosciuszko National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

Thredbo to Khancoban

Distance: 77 kilometres
Travel time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

The most stunning stretch of the Alpine Way twists and turns soon after you leave Thredbo. Roll down the window to let in the unique scent of the Aussie Alps – pine trees mingled with eucalypts – as you descend the hairpin mountain road that looks, on a map, like it’s been drawn by a polygraph.

vehicles parked on Tom Groggin campground — Pull up your caravan at Tom Groggin campground. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

You’ll practically kiss the Victorian border at Tom Groggin campground before taking a sharp turn north towards Khancoban and the end of the Alpine Way. Make it last by including a few scenic pit stops and bushwalks along the way.

Halfway along this stretch you’ll find Geehi Flats, a secluded picnic and camping spot located on the sparkling Swampy Plains River.

a man enjoying a day of fly fishing in Swampy Plains River, Kosciuszko National Park — Fly fishing is common along the Swampy Plains River. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Simply stretch your legs and take a peek at the first of three historic alpine huts in the area, or head off on the six-kilometre Geehi huts walking track, which takes in two more plus river crossings and more magnificent Snowy Mountains views.

Geehi Hut at Geehi Flats campground — Camp on Geehi Flats for a secluded spot alongside the river. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

You can also opt to pitch a tent for the night on the river’s grassy banks for maximum tranquillity (bookings essential via the NPWS website ).

a man biking around the scenic landscape at Geehi Flats — Go biking around the scenic landscape at Geehi Flats. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

Fifteen minutes further up the road you’ll find Scammell’s lookout, 1000 metres above sea level and offering spectacular views back the way you’ve come from. From here you can trace the contours of the rugged western fall of the Snowy Mountains’ Main Range.

snow covered gum trees at Blue Cow ski resort, Perisher — Perisher has good skiable areas like Thredbo. (Image: Destination NSW)

Enjoy the diversity and rugged beauty that Kosciuszko has to offer near Thredbo and Perisher along the Illawong walk , Pallaibo walking track and Waterfall walking track , which are great for nature-spotting sessions.

the Thredbo Valley Track signage, Kosciuszko National Park — Take the mountain bike route to Thredbo Valley Track. (Image: Lucy Morrell/DPE)

One of the best ways to have an adventure in the Snowies is to hire a mountain bike or e-bike (or take your own) and hit the Thredbo Valley Track . It’s a 35-kilometre trail back to Jindabyne which winds through stunning alpine terrain with scenic suspension bridges and spectacular sections running alongside the Snowy River. The track offers world-class mountain biking for all abilities, from easy beginner rides to a challenging full-day ride and is typically open from November to May, depending on the weather. Another alternative is hitting the trails at Thredbo Mountain Bike Park, to experience scenic cross-country trails and Australia’s only lift-accessible terrain.

a mountain biker crossing a suspension bridge at Thredbo Valley Track — Traverse through stunning alpine terrain with scenic suspension bridges. (Image: Elinor Sheargold/DPE)

Further along the Alpine Way however, you’ll arrive in Khancoban. Originally built to house workers on the Snowy Mountains Scheme, Khancoban sits on the western edge of Kosciuszko in the foothills of the mountains.

the controlled spillway at Khancoban Dam — Khancoban Dam has a controlled spillway that flows across the Swampy Plain River. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Today the small town’s scenic pondage, which forms part of the scheme, is used recreationally for fishing, kayaking and water sports. And, part of the idyllic Snowy Valleys region, it marks the end – or perhaps just the beginning – of the legendary Alpine Way.

a scenic view of the Khancoban Pondage — The town of Khancoban is nestled in the idyllic Snowy Valleys region. (Image: Snowy Valleys Council; Matt Beaver)

Park the car and go off-piste

Three multi-day adventures to have in the Snowy Mountains:

1. Make like The Man from Snowy River and immerse yourself in the Kosciuszko wilderness on a three-to-five-day horse-riding trek with Reynella Rides . Departing from Adaminaby, about 50 kilometres from Cooma, from November through to the end of April, there’s surely no better way to travel through the Snowy Mountains and its landscape of wildflower carpets, alpine streams and open plains. The team make things easy by arranging pick-up and drop-off transfers from Cooma, too.

2. Spend five or six days paddling the Snowy River through the ancient landscape of the Byadbo Wilderness in the remote southern reaches of Kosciuszko with Alpine River Adventures . Led by an Aboriginal guide for interpretation of Country and Indigenous perspectives, the unique journeys depart from Numeralla near Cooma and take in beach camping, river gorges and chances to spot quoll, platypuses, kangaroos, emus and sea eagles in the wild. Trips run year-round, with guaranteed water levels from August to November.

an aerial view of kayakers on Snowy River, Alpine River Adventures — Go paddling on the Snowy River with Alpine River Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

3. Take on Australia’s 10 highest peaks with boutique tour operator K7 Adventures . Join a hiking tour through the high country from November to May with guide and landscape photographer Mike Edmondson. It’s an unforgettable opportunity for experienced walkers with good fitness levels and offers 360-degree views of some of the most extraordinary sights in the country.

a man skiing in Thredbo, Snowy Mountains — Take in remarkable sights on top of the Snowy Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Written by Imogen Eveson and updated by Kristie Lau-Adams.

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole — See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast — Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior — Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast — Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital — Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie — Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast — Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm — Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast — Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple — Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park — Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.

A road trip itinerary along the great Kosciuszko Alpine Way

Twist and turn along the Kosciuszko Alpine Way for a journey steeped in mythology and untold adventure.

Start at Cooma

Cooma to Jindabyne

Jindabyne to Thredbo in Kosciuszko National Park

Thredbo to Khancoban

Park the car and go off-piste

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8 Thredbo hiking experiences you can only have in summer

This intimate Berry retreat was dubbed NSW’s best luxe accommodation

Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

Winter on the Central Coast

Winter in Wollongong