From cool new cafes to pristine beaches, we’re making the case for Ballina as a destination for lingering. These are the best things to do when visiting.

Gateway towns tend to suffer with self-depreciation. Their sense of worth hinging on being a requisite stepping stone on route to something else. As the launch point to the lauded wellness hotspot of Byron Bay, it’s fair to say that, historically at least, Ballina has long been in this camp. As the airport shuttles high-tailed it up the M1, taking the tourist dollar with it, Ballina just waved, shrugged and went back to the beach.

But whoa – what a beach! It’s little wonder Ballina locals were willing to let those linen-clad staycationers exit north, because the beaches here are veritable stretches of paradise worth keeping to oneself. Maybe that’s been the strategy all along? Maybe.

Yet, as someone who has history with Ballina, I can pretty much guarantee this isn’t the case. Believing it had less to offer, through the 90s, the town bloated with fast food chains and uninspiring urban development, while Byron became ever more the elegant sibling. The median age in Ballina back them seemed to sit around 65, nightlife only existed in the form of bingo at the Cherry Street Bowls Club, and your best option for dining out was the local Chinese joint.

That version of Ballina is now under serious review. It has finally caught a glimpse of itself in the mirror and realised it’s actually the swan, not the duckling. And the best things to do in Ballina showcase the town’s diversity; yes, it has beautiful beaches (some of them barely touched), but it also has the Richmond River and North Creek, both converging to exit into the Pacific between two beautiful break walls, as well as its own pretty hinterland.

Next time you book a flight into the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport, make sure you spend some time here first. You may decide its lowkey charms are actually what you’re after.

The best things to do in Ballina

Dine at a waterside watering holes

Ballina’s various waterways glitter prettily throughout the day, offering ample opportunities to dine waterside. You could reasonably go from am-to-pm mooching from one water view to another. Start with coffee and breakfast at The Belle General right across from Shelly Beach. Move on to lunch just down the road at the Shaws Bay Hotel.

Set smack on the water’s edge at Shaws Bay, the kids can run down to the little beach, while you enjoy an Aperol spritz and truly elevated pub fare. Here the gorgeously restored heritage building serves Hamptons-meets-Amalfi style cues with an Aussie beach town undertone.

Next, head riverside for afternoon snacks and sips at Wharf Bar and Restaurant. Watch the sun glint off the Richmond River as anglers cast off from the jetty out-front at this easy-going bar and eatery. Come dinner, hit the nicely blistered crusts at Capiche, overlooking Lighthouse Beach.

Stop for post-beach bites

But you don’t need to be saltwater-adjacent to eat well in Ballina. River Street is where you’ll find a collection of shops and cafes caught mid-upswing. Some are catching on, others are holding on, but among them is hip Hey Lady Diner, where you’ll find Japanese-inspired plates served for breakfast and dinner with some well-stirred cocktails at the latter. While on Cherry Street, Bertie’s lands excellent sandwiches, such as the coronation butter chicken, toasties and even cannolis.

Speaking of beaches…

The Ballina coastline meanders northwards to Lennox Head with beach after long, sandy beach. From Lighthouse Beach to Shelly Beach, Angels Beach, Flat Rock, Sharpes, Boulders and Skennars, it’s a surfer’s dream. And that’s just in one direction! Southwards are the more remote, much-less visited stretches best accessed by boat. For ease, Lighthouse and Shelly are the closest to town and patrolled, making a visit one of the top things to do in Ballina. Sharpes and Flat Rock are great for walks and rockpools. For kids, head to Serpentine Beach or Shaws Bay.

Head to the hinterland

For days when you need a reprieve from the salt spray and sun, head inland 15 minutes to Tintenbar. Here, tucked off Friday Hit Road, is Killen Falls. This cascade thunders robustly after rain and you can take the short but steep trail down to its edge to enter a cave behind the shimmering curtain of water. It can get muddy and slippery when wet, so take care, but this pretty spot and trailing creek make it a must-do excursion.

Further along, you’ll find the village of Newrybar (long claimed by Byron, but actually in the Ballina Shire). Once home to the beloved Harvest restaurant, this quaint rural outpost is in the midst of a transformation, but while the old Harvest site is currently cocooned for a new and upcoming era, you can still grab a coffee from Combi or The Little General and peruse the merchandise at The Old Pacific.

Explore Lennox Head

Just up the road from Ballina is the hip, surf-cool town of Lennox Head. There’s always been an endless summer vibe here with the main street running parallel to the beach and the flow of sandy feet between them constant. Along the way, toward the north end, you’ll find surf shops, a great fish and chippery, and the impressive fine-dining restaurant Shelter.

Eventually, you’ll end up at Lake Ainsworth, where the melaleucas hemming its edge perpetually stain the water the shade of Coca-Cola. It’s a sweet spot for a swim, so long as you don’t mind not seeing your own legs.

At the opposite end of town is the unmissable Lennox Point. Stroll the Lennox Point Walk, a 4.2-kilometre return track to fully absorb those cyan sea views.

Where to stay in Ballina

For low-key stays there are plenty of caravan parks in Ballina, including Reflections. Just a walk from Lighthouse Beach is the Ballina Beach Resort and for River Street stays, the Ramada Hotel and Suites make an easy pick, but your best bet for longer vacays is to find a cute, beachside Airbnb.