The ultimate guide to exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges

Leah McLennanBy Leah McLennan
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The immense Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park boasts some of Central Australia’s most spectacular scenery.

Stretching for 160 kilometres west from Alice Springs, its concentration of pristine waterholes, cliffs of colourful ochre and biodiversity is hard to match. Best explored on foot, it’s home to the epic 223-kilometre Larapinta Trail, one of Australia’s most challenging multi-day walks. But you don’t have to commit to the entire length of this iconic line to experience the valleys, plains, and canyons of the West Macs. Here’s your ultimate guide to exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges.

How to get to West MacDonnell National Park

The West Macs begin just outside Alice Springs, with the major attractions ranging from 15 minutes to 2 hours’ drive away. Jump on an organised tour or hire your own car to access the sites.

driving along West MacDonnell Ranges
Embark on a road trip to the West MacDonnell Ranges. (Image: Tourism NT/Sean Scott)

While a regular car will get you to many of the major sites, a 4WD will allow you to do side trips. Another way to experience the West Macs is to hike a section of the Larapinta Trail .

a group of hikers traversing the Larapinta Trail
Hike past rocky outcrops along the Larapinta Trail. (Image: Tourism NT/Tourism Australia)

What to see in West MacDonnell National Park

Must-see spots include Simpsons Gap with its towering red cliffs and black-footed rock wallabies, Ellery Creek with its refreshingly cool (bordering on icy) swimming hole, and Standley Chasm with its glowing red rock walls at midday. The historical Ochre Pits are well worth a visit, as is the natural oasis that is Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen with its huge cliff face and inviting cool water.

an aerial view of people swimming in Glen Helen
Take a cool dip at Glen Helen. (Image: Tourism NT/All About Adventure)

Simpsons Gap

Only a short drive from Alice Springs, the towering red cliffs of Simpsons Gap are unmissable. If you’re here at sunrise or sunset, keep your eyes peeled for rock wallabies near the walking paths. The area is also a nature lover’s dream, dotted with ghost gums, mulga trees and over 40 kinds of rare plants.

the red cliffs at Simpsons Gap
See the towering red cliffs at Simpsons Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/Backyard Bandits)

For the walkers, there are several easy trails to pick from that wind through native plants with some pretty sweet views of the ranges thrown in. If biking is your thing, there’s a 17 kilometres path from just outside Alice Springs straight to the Gap. Outback Cycling  rents out bikes. Make sure you pack plenty of cold drinks as it’s the only refreshment permitted here. No swimming is allowed.

two people biking at Simpsons Gap
Pedal your way around Simpsons Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught

Standley Chasm

Owned by the Western Arrernte people, Standley Chasm is an incredibly narrow, soaring passage through the towering, rust-stained rocks, just a 40-minute drive west of Alice Springs.

a man standing between the towering red cliffs at Standley Chasm
Make your way through the narrow passage of Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT/Mark Fitzpatrick)

To access this 80-metre high, three-metre-wide canyon you will need to purchase a $12 ticket to enter this flora and fauna reserve. From the kiosk, it’s an easy 1.2-kilometre walk along a well-maintained path to the gorge. For a more in-depth experience, jump on a half-day cultural experience, which includes a guided walk, dot painting workshop and lunch.

a painting workshop at Standley Chasm
Join a half-day cultural experience. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)

Ellery Creek Big Hole

You’ll find this secluded swimming spot 88 kilometres west of Alice Springs. With easy access via a sealed road, this permanent, deep waterhole surrounded by towering red cliffs is perfect for a dip on a hot day. If you’re lucky you might spot a dingo taking a drink, and keep an eye out for honeyeaters, white-winged fairywrens, and little buttonquails. Hikers can set off on the Dolomite Walk, a three-kilometre loop walk through the surrounding spinifex country with good views en route.

swimming in the waterhole at Ellery Creek
Ellery Creek is perfect for a cool dip on a hot day. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Serpentine Gorge

The narrow, ochre-red Serpentine Gorge sits 100 kilometres west of Alice Springs, with the entrance to the gorge down a three-kilometre dirt track. It has a little waterhole, a dwarf compared to surrounding waterholes, but its lookout adds to its appeal. Climb up the steep track for about 15 minutes to the top of a towering cliff and (once you catch your breath back) you will be stunned by the 360-degree view from the top.

Ochre Pits

About 110 kilometres west of Alice Springs, don’t miss stopping by the spectacular Ochre Pits, a rockface with colourful bands of clay. The Ochre Pits are easily accessible via a 300-metre sealed path from the car park, which is an attractive picnic spot. The Western Aranda people have used this site for thousands of years to gather ochre for painting, body decoration, medicine, and to cover wooden weapons to protect them from termites.

a group of hikers exploring Ochre Pits
Journey through a colourful ochre outcrop. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Glen Helen Gorge

 Glen Helen is your go-to spot for soaking in the majesty of the West Macs, enjoying a swim, and hanging out with the local fauna.

the spectacular view of Glen Helen Gorge
Glen Helen Gorge is rich in diverse flora and fauna. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

Sitting 132 kilometres west of Alice Springs, the first thing you see as you drive into Glen Helen is a towering sandstone cliff. A short stroll from the car park, you will find a serene hideaway with shaded banks and a huge body of water that is home to several fish species.

a woman sitting on a rock at Glen Helen Gorge
Take advantage of the shaded banks of the gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Mark Fitzpatrick)

Ormiston Gorge

A huge inviting pool surrounded by sandy verges, Ormiston Gorge is another unmissable spot, famously swimmable year-round.

relaxing at Ormiston Gorge
Ormiston Gorge is an ideal spot to swim. (Image: Tourism NT/The Salty Travellers)

To earn your refreshing swim you should attempt the 8.5-kilometre Ormiston Pound Walk (a loop hike from the car park). It takes you to a ridge-top lookout over Ormiston Pound, a circle of peaks amid the otherwise unbending lines of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

an aerial view of the Ormiston Gorge
You don’t want to miss the spectacular views in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Salty Aura)

Redbank Gorge

Nestled at the base of Mt Sonder, Redbank Gorge is a slot canyon with a near-permanent waterhole that is a bird-watching paradise. Tip: bring a flotation device to swim through the gorge.

a couple walking along Redbank Gorge
Spend time by the secluded Redbank Gorge. (Tourism NT/Jess Caldwell & Luke Riddle)

There are plenty of hiking options at Redbank Gorge, 156km west of Alice Springs. Hikers can tick off Larapinta Trail’s section 12 from the car park, a 5km return walk that takes you to the Mount Sonder Lookout.

a woman floating on Redbank Gorge
Float along the emerald waters. (Image: Tourism NT/All About Adventure)

West MacDonnell Ranges Accommodation

Camping spots are plentiful in the West Macs and are managed by NT Parks, except for Standley Chasm. Make sure you book at NT Parks before you arrive and plan several months in advance as sites book out during the peak winter months.

Alice Springs surrounds from above
See Alice Springs in the distance from above. (Image: Tourism Australia/Allan Dixon)

Standley Chasm

At the Aboriginal-owned and operated Standley Chasm campers and caravaners can choose from powered and non-powered sites on the grassy lawn.

two women sitting outside their tents at Standley Chasm
Support the Aboriginal-owned and operated campsite at Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT/Charlie Bliss)

Facilities include toilets, hot showers, a washing machine, a camp kitchen, and barbecues. There’s also a kiosk cafe and gift shop.

two people walking along the camp facilities at Standley Chasm
Choose from powered and non-powered sites. (Image: Tourism NT/Charlie Bliss)

Ellery Creek Campground

At the popular Ellery Creek Big Hole, you’ll no doubt be sharing this beautiful swimming spot with others. Tents, trailers and caravans are welcome at the campground and facilities include barbecues, wood firepits and toilets.

friends swimming at Ellery Creek
Set up camp on Ellery Creek. (Image: Tourism NT/Salty Aura)

Ormiston Gorge Campground

Pleasant camping facilities are available at Ormiston Gorge, 135 kilometres west of Alice Springs. Facilities include gas barbecues, toilets, and showers.

the waterhole at Ormiston Gorge
Orminston Gorge has a permanent waterhole. (Image: Tourism NT/Daniel Tran)

Birthday Waterhole Campground

Accessible by 4WD only, Birthday Waterhole is about an hour’s drive from Alice Springs. There are no facilities so make sure you have drinking water and all your camping requirements with you.

Finke River Two Mile Campground

Accessible by 4WD only, Finke Two Mile campground sits beside the Finke River, around 130 kilometres west of Alice Springs. Campers need to be self-sufficient as there are no facilities here.

an aerial view of Finke River Two Mile campground
Finke River Two Mile Campground can only be accessed by a 4WD. (Image: Tourism NT/Jess Caldwell & Luke Riddle)

Redbank Gorge (Ridgetop) Campground

The tranquil Redbank Gorge (Ridgetop) campsite has basic facilities including toilets, firepits, and picnic tables. A 4WD is recommended to access this gorge, which is 156km from Alice Springs and 5km along a dirt road.

the Redbank Gorge walking sign
Take the two-kilometre walk from the car park to Redbank Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)
Leah McLennan
Leah McLennan is a freelance writer based in Darwin. She was a journalist in Sydney for over a decade and counts her time as travel editor for Australian Associated Press as one of the highlights of her career. From exploring remote campsites in the Top End with her family, to seeking out new art galleries in faraway cities, she’ll grab an adventurous or arty travel experience within her reach.
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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

    Lee MylneBy Lee Mylne
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    Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

    Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

    Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

    1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

    Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park , just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

    Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

    2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

    Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole , open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

    Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
    Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

    The Tiwi Islands , a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

    Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

    A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
    Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

    4. Dine in Darwin

    Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets , Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets .

    Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

    A bowl of Laksa.
    Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

    5. Up close with Uluṟu

    The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

    There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

    A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

    6. Drive the Red Centre Way

    From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

    Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

    SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
    Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

    7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

    Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa . This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

    Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

    The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
    Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

    8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

    Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap , Standley Chasm , Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen .

    Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

    Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com