Whale tales: A dive into the marine mecca that is the Fraser Coast

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Discover the Fraser Coast, a marine mecca that beckons with tales of adventure, where majestic oceanic beings compete for attention with the timeless beauty of one of Australia’s most treasured islands.

“We’ve got two males without a calf, let’s go!" Captain Grant McCaffrey shouts just as lunch is served onboard M.V. Arcadia, Hervey Bay Dive Centre’s whale swim vessel.

I drop my sandwich and start running from the upper deck to the back of the boat where the other passengers are already plunging into the water. They’re drifting out into the open ocean, holding onto a rope that’s attached to the port side of the boat. Just as I throw my snorkel on, our instructor Mathew Bradley says the rope has reached capacity, but I can hold onto the ladder on the starboard side instead.

After diving in, I’m underwater when I hear muffled yelling. I can’t quite make out what they’re saying, so I lift my head out to hear Matt say, “They’re right there! Two of them! Quick!" I put my head back under just in time to see a huge, majestic humpback swimming to the left of me and then another, right behind it. They are gone as quickly as they came, and I am beaming as I emerge from the water.

an aerial view of a whale watching tour, Hervey Bay Dive Centre
Swim with whales in the world’s first Whale Heritage Site. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

To my complete surprise, no one else had seen the whales underwater. As is the way with nature and wildlife, you can’t pinpoint exactly where the whales will go or when they’ll come – and much to my delight, and my fellow passengers’ dismay, they had only passed by the side of the boat I had chanced my luck on.

A humpback whale in Hervey Bay
The whale swim usually finishes by early September when more calves arrive in the bay. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The world’s first Whale Heritage Site

Hervey Bay on Queensland’s Fraser Coast is the world’s first Whale Heritage Site. The whale season here runs from July to October, but the whale swim usually finishes by early September when more calves arrive in the bay (it’s a Great Sandy Marine Park requirement that you can’t swim with calves). I am here right at the end of the peak swim season. And while we see plenty of glorious humpbacks and their babies, we only get one opportunity to swim with them.

a whale spotted swimming in the waters of Fraser Island
The Fraser Coast is the whale-watching capital of the world.

Swim with whales from July to September at Hervey Bay Dive Centre; $225 for adults and $150 for children. Or go on a whale-watching tour from September to October; $185 for adults and $120 for children.

a whale spotted swimming in the waters of Fraser Island
We see plenty of glorious humpbacks and their babies. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

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Exploring K’gari

Beyond being the whale-watching capital of the world, the Fraser Coast is a destination bestrewn with marine experiences. After a short ferry ride departing Hervey Bay, I arrive on K’gari (pronounced gah-ree) and am instantly welcomed by the warm, golden hues at Kingfisher Bay Resort’s aptly named Sunset Bar.

At 123 kilometres long and 22 kilometres at its widest point, K’gari is the largest sand island in the world. This haven boasts misty rainforests, rugged wilderness, more than 40 stunning freshwater lakes and abundant wildlife, including its famous wongari (dingoes).

K’gari from water
K’gari is the largest sand island in the world.

A K’gari highlight reel

There are myriad ways to experience K’gari. Whether you’re camping and driving around the World Heritage-listed site or staying at one of the resorts like I am, there’s a way to explore. I only have one day to see the sights, so I jump onboard Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Beauty Spots Tour – a highlight reel of K’gari.

As I approach the humongous 4WD bus I know it’s going to be a bumpy ride. “Sit at the back if you want to be thrown around," our guide Ian ‘Butch’ Butcher says with a laugh. Our group comprises a largely older demographic, so I trudge towards the back end of the bus with my coffee in hand (first mistake) to take one for the team. I set myself down five rows from the back (I’m only human) and hope for the best.

As soon as Butch starts the journey my coffee is shooting out of the spout and I’m desperately trying to drink it without scalding my mouth. Every time we go over a huge bump, we erupt into fits of laughter. I am astonished at how fast it feels like Butch is fanging this monstrous bus through rough, sandy terrain, but I know experience is on his side.

a 4WD bus drive around Fraser Island
The Beauty Spots Tour is a highlight reel of K’gari. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

75 Mile Beach

Our first stop is K’gari Beach Resort for some lunch before we start the drive on 75 Mile Beach, a sand highway that runs the length of K’gari’s east coast. We see an alpha male dingo on the beach near Yidney Rocks and watch the whales out at sea as Butch flies along the shoreline.

a dingo on Fraser Island
We see an alpha male dingo on the beach near Yidney Rocks. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The bus makes a couple of stops along the beach; the Pinnacles – 700,000-year-old unique sand dunes that have formed into spires and towers; the iconic Maheno shipwreck; and Eli Creek, where visitors float down the tree-lined waterway.

the iconic Maheno shipwreck on K'gari
We stop by the iconic Maheno shipwreck. (Image: Emily Murphy)

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Scenic flight over K’gari

When we arrive at Eli Creek, an Air Fraser scenic flight has just landed on 75 Mile Beach and has availability for some extra passengers. I put my hand up and within minutes am onboard and ready. Pilot Hugh Weber gives us a quick safety briefing and we are off. I’ve never been on such a small plane, and I can’t take the smile off my face. The whirlwind flight takes us over Butterfly Lake – so named because of its shape from above, Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie, Eli Creek and the ocean.

scenic flight over Butterfly Lake on K'gari Fraser Coast
The scenic flight takes us over Butterfly Lake. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The 15-minute scenic flight is only $100 per person.

an Air Fraser scenic flight above K'gari
See K’gari from above on an Air Fraser scenic flight. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie

Finally, we stop at the unmissable Boorangoora. The perched lake is recognisable by its gradient of blues that reflect the depth of the water. The pure, white silica sand acts as a filter, creating water so pure it can’t support any marine life.

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie on K'gari, Fraser Coast
Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie is recognisable by its gradient of blues. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

I sit in the lake with my friend, and we lather ourselves with the sand, scrubbing away any impurities. Butch laughs at us and says it won’t do anything, but I tell you, my skin has never felt so smooth.

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie on K'gari, Fraser Coast
Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie’s pure, white silica sand is the perfect exfoliant. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Beauty Spots Tour that takes you to K’gari’s highlights starts at $249 for an adult and $169 for a child aged between four and 14.

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Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her 4+ years at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? South Australia and The Kimberley.
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4 surprising ways to experience the real Gold Coast

Credit: Reuben Nutt

There’s more to discover in this buzzing city beyond its thrilling theme parks and pretty beaches.

One of the world’s most celebrated coastal destinations, the Gold Coast has long drawn in visitors with its endless stretches of golden sand and thrilling theme parks. And while these iconic drawcards deliver time and time again, there’s much more to discover in this idyllic pocket of the world.

Luxury enthusiasts are catered for with fabulous five-star retreats, foodies can delight their taste buds with the freshest produce, and nature lovers can lose themselves in a world of ancient rainforest.

From the Hinterland to the sea, here are five surprising ways to experience the Gold Coast.

1. Indulge in luxury

Mondrian Gold Coast women enjoying Pampering treatments at the Ciel Spa and wellness facilities
Escape the grind inside Mondrian Gold Coast’s CIEL Spa. (Credit: Demi Gavin)

If you’re in need of a weekend away to recharge, you’re well looked after with the suite of five-star beachfront hotels. And with the country’s first Andaz hotel opening later this year in Broadbeach and a glamorous Ritz-Carlton on the way, a new era of luxury is being ushered in.

Many of these hotels, like The Langham (Chuan Spa) and the Mondrian Gold Coast (CIEL Spa), feature world-class day spas in sumptuous settings, offering treatments spanning massages, facials, body wraps, and hand and foot therapies from some of the world’s best therapists.

It would also be remiss when on the Gold Coast not to take to the sparkling waters, and the most stylish way to do so is by chartering a yacht, of course. Set sail on your own private haven from Crystal Blue Yacht Charters or Sailing in Paradise, spending your days lounging on deck, discovering secluded coves only accessible by boat and dipping in crystalline waters.

2. Escape to the Hinterland

experience the Gold Coast at springbrook national park Warrie Circuit, looking out from Ngarri-dhum Falls
Hike through Springbrook National Park to enjoy incredible views. (Credit: Reuben Nutt)

You’d be forgiven for not being able to pull yourself away from the Gold Coast’s sparkling coastline, but just a 30-minute drive inland, the Hinterland spoils visitors with a lush landscape that brings an instant sense of calm.

In the World Heritage-listed Lamington National Park, an ancient oasis of over 500 waterfalls and over 160 kilometres of bushwalking trails are waiting to be discovered, soundtracked by the calls of rare rainforest songbirds. And in the ancient Springbrook National Park, you can witness a dazzling light show from one of the largest glow worm colonies in the world. And walk beneath towering Antarctic Beech Trees.

The Hinterland’s fertile volcanic soil and subtropical climate make it a growers’ paradise, and gourmands can relish the best of the region’s bounty at restaurants like Paddock at Beechmont Estate. This casual fine-dining destination offers a paddock-to-plate experience in the truest sense, with produce harvested onsite and sourced from local farms. It might also surprise you to learn that there are fabulous wineries in the region as well, including the must-visit Witches Falls Winery, which produces world-class wild-ferment drops.

3. Taste the best of the dining scene

Tarte Bakery & Cafe serving coffee, pastries and meals in the heart of Burleigh
Treat yourself at Tarte Bakery & Cafe. (Credit: Jesse Lindemann)

The culinary scene on the Gold Coast exceeds expectations thanks to its location and gastronomic talent. Ultra-fresh seafood, abundant hinterland produce and inventive brews star on menus, making it a haven for foodies.

Start your day on a delicious note with the smell of fresh pastries and some of the best coffee in the city at Tarte Bakery & Cafe. Or sit in the classic Queenslander at Paddock Bakery to tuck into their elevated take on ‘egg and soldiers’, with toasted sourdough, organic labna, parsley and bacon bits.

Rick Shores is a must-visit lunch or sunset dinner spot in Burleigh Heads, loved for its front-row vistas of the ocean and succulent Pan-Asian flavours – the Fried Moreton Bay Bug Roll with its delicate sweet meat and toasted brioche bun has a cult following. The team’s second venue, Norté, is another culinary triumph, serving Latin American bites in an ultra-sleek space.

For a more relaxed affair, sit outside at the award-winning Burleigh Brewing Co and sip your way through a tasting padel of inventive lagers and ales while tapping your feet to live music.

4. Recover with wellness & relaxation

aerial view of upper valley pool at Eden Retreat on the gold coast
Enjoy a total reset surrounded by rainforest at Eden Retreat.

The Gold Coast knows a thing or two when it comes to pampering and relaxation, and those seeking some R&R or to banish their worries can do so at the multitude of bathhouses, day spas and secluded hinterland retreats peppered across the city.

One of the most coveted spots to unwind and experience the tranquillity of Japanese bathing culture is at SOL Elements, Australia’s first floating bathhouse snuggled in the rainforests of Mt Tamborine. Also located in the hinterland is Eden Retreat, a luxury health retreat on a 400-acre property designed to reconnect you with nature via daily wellness classes and contemporary lodges overlooking the rainforest.

Back in the city, Soak Bathhouse is a local favourite for contrast therapy with its open-air hot spas, mineral baths, cold plunges, cedar sauna and steam room. If a massage or facial is more your calling, book into Spa by JW at JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort and Spa. Let the professionals soothe overworked muscles and rejuvenate skin in a heavenly setting.

And who could forget the city’s untamed side? Seek out natural swimming spots like the dreamy Araluen swimming hole hidden away in the Tallebudgera Valley, and the lower section of Currumbin Creek, a pristine tidal estuary with lagoon-like waters.

Start planning the ultimate Gold Coast getaway, your way, at experiencegoldcoast.com.