Top Towns for 2022: Where to eat, stay and play in Hahndorf

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A trip to this small town in the Adelaide Hills transcends time and continents, combining a rich German heritage with a thriving artisan culture, and it comes in at 32 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

The hallowed halls of the 159-year-old Hahndorf Inn are filled with the melodic sounds of German polka music. The jovial tunes are played by Herman and Heidi – a husband-and-wife duo who perform on matching vintage accordions while dressed in traditional lederhosen and dirndl. Merrymakers feast on pork knuckle, bratwurst and apfelstrudel, regularly clinking together steins of German bier or shots of schnapps. Prost! But we’re not in Bavaria. And it’s not Oktoberfest.

Man playing German polka music in Hahndorf.
German polka music is your Hahndorf soundtrack.

It’s just a regular weekend at the Hahndorf Inn, nestled in Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement in the undulating Adelaide Hills. Hahndorf was settled in 1839 by Lutheran migrants who came to Australia seeking religious freedom from Prussia.

They arrived via the ship Zebra, helmed by Captain Dirk Meinertz Hahn, who negotiated the land on behalf of the 52 families onboard. As thanks, they named the village Hahndorf – ‘Hahn’s Village’.

Constructed using traditional German techniques such as fachwerk (timber framing and wattle and daub panels), some of the original buildings have survived time, nestled among contemporary buildings on the charming main avenue lined with 100-year-old chestnut, oak and cork trees.

Hahndorf's heritage streetscape
Hahndorf’s heritage streetscape is magical.

Within these historic spaces, skilled craftspeople and traders tout specialty goods, an artisanal culture that embodies the town today, as much as its German heritage.

Here’s how to spend your days in Hahndorf.

Where to eat

First established in 1854 as the Australian Arms Hotel, the Hahndorf Inn is a German family restaurant with cosy fireplaces for cool regional winters, al fresco dining for sun-drenched summers, and the Arcobräu Brauhaus (traditional beer hall) for frivolity year-round.

Come for traditional German fare or join in a strudel-making class, held daily at 10.30 am. Time your visit when Herman and Heidi are playing their jovial music.

German food on a plate at the Hahndorf Inn
Hahndorf Inn is a German family restaurant.

With a history that goes back even further, the 1839-built German Arms Hotel is another local pub with a menu combining modern Australian cuisine with signature German dishes, much like its heritage space that was given a contemporary refresh in 2020.

Moving beyond pub fare but staying Euro-side, Gepetto’s serves rustic Italian dishes in a relaxed setting, accompanied by regular live music. Take a quick trip to Spain at Comida, a chic restaurant serving tapas, paella and vino; its manicured and festoon-lit garden area out the back is an idyllic setting on warm evenings and great for families.

Focusing on local produce, Hahn and Hamlin is an intimate diner in an original 19th-century stone cottage. The share menu features beef and lamb from Hahndorf’s own Max Noske & Son Butchery, Udder Delights cheese and Uraidla Bakery breads, while the entire wine list is made up of South Australian drops.

Cheese board at Udder Delights Cheese
Sample Udder Delights cheese.

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Where to drink

Wine lovers can sample more local drops at cellar doors along the main road, including Somerled Wines, whose elegant cellar bar has a fireplace, leafy courtyard and snack menu to accompany tasting flights.

Book the subterranean den of a historic stone building at Landhaus Wines, an atmospheric space for small group tastings. A little further down the road, sip wines and ciders in an old apple shed at Sidewood Cellar Door.

A visit to Sidewood Restaurant and Cellar Door is in order. (Image: Sidewood Estate)

To experience several local winegrowers in one place, make a beeline for Adelaide Hills Wine Bar in the 1912 State Bank building. If gin is your drink of choice, knock on the distillery door at Ambleside Distillers. Its handcrafted spirits are made using botanicals from the on-site garden; you can even blend your own in a masterclass.

Ambleside Distillers gin blending masterclass
The Ambleside Distillers gin blending masterclass is a must-do. (Image: Josh Geelan)

The distillery name is in reference to when Hahndorf was renamed Ambleside during the First World War when anti-German prejudice was rife. It was changed back to Hahndorf in 1935.

For your morning caffeine kick, head to Thiele’s Shop, a cafe and small goods store named after the local pioneering Thiele family who originally owned the 1839-built property. Think farmhouse cheeses, cured meats, wines and beers from small producers, and a simple breakfast and lunch offering, such as pastries and toasties.

Ambleside Distillers drinks
Savour a gin at Ambleside Distillers. (Image: Lewis Potter)

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Where to shop

Much of Hahndorf’s charm stems from its community of artisans, whose handcrafted wares and homemade provisions line the shelves of the town’s specialty stores.

Peruse handcrafted knives at Hahndorf Knife Shop; unique candles and German folk art at Hahndorf Candlemaker; quality leather goods at Hahndorf Leathersmith; and an aesthetically pleasing array of art supplies at The Paintbox.

Of course, there are many stores selling German goods, too, from cuckoo clocks to Birkenstocks. Stepping into The German Village Shop is like stepping into the Black Forest; it sells everything from hand-carved cuckoo clocks to beer steins, cowbells, music boxes and Christmas decorations.

Satiate your sweet tooth at The German Cake Shop and choose from more than 100 flavours of fudge at the four confectionery stores: Hahndorf Sweets, Humbugs of Hahndorf, Treats of Hahndorf and The Fudge Shop.

Where to stay

Perfectly located in the heart of Hahndorf, the Manna by Haus is a boutique hotel with simple but spacious rooms that can sleep up to four guests. For couples who want something a little more extraordinary, Under the Oaks is a chic studio stay in a converted 1858 church, with a king-size bed, fireplace and fully equipped kitchen.

Room inside the Manna by Haus in Hahndorf.
Stay at the Manna by Haus. (Image: Kirkbee Pty Ltd)
Explore more of Adelaide Hills in our travel guide or find out which other towns made it into your Top 50.

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Megan Arkinstall
Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

    Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

    walking trails in the Yarra Valley
    You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

    A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

    holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
    Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

    a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
    A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

    I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

    Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

    Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

    As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

    oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
    Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

    On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

    I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

    kangaroos in Yarra Valley
    Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

    the Yarra Valley vineyards
    Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

    Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

    COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

    It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

    A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

    legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
    The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

    The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

    I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

    The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

    After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

    Playing there

    the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
    Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

    Eating and drinking there

    Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

    seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
    The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)