13 reasons Coober Pedy is delightfully strange

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Opal mining town enigma Coober Pedy is very special place. Very special. Here are 13 reasons why this is Australia’s most delightfully strange town.

1. Blowing up stuff is a proud tradition

Not too much gets blown up these days but back in the 1980s you could buy dynamite over the counter at the local supermarket. The locals would settle disputes by blowing things sky-high rather than with their fists or a trip to court. The said-same courthouse, a police car and a restaurant were all destroyed at one time or another (apparently with no related deaths).

2. No dynamite in the cinema, if you don’t mind

A legacy of that proudly pyrotechnic era is a message which still flashes up before the feature film at the local drive in: ‘Patrons: Explosives Are Not To Be Brought Into This Theatre – The Management’.

3. Surnames are banned

Well, not officially, but they’re not embraced nor encouraged. People go their whole lives out here just being called by their nickname, such as Pommy John or Chicken Man, without anyone ever finding out who they really are. Sometimes it’s best not to ask too many questions – if you get what I mean.

4. No one has a clue how many people live here

There are the two versions of Coober Pedy’s population: the official and the unofficial. The 2011 census stated that were 1695 residents living here. But even the local council laughs at that figure, claiming it to be nearer to “around 3500". So why the difference? Let’s just say that the town is a great place to come to get a “fresh start".

5. It’s like a film set jumble sale

Film prop Red Planet Coober Pedy
Film flotsam: a prop from Val Kilmer’s Red Planet surveys Coober Pedy’s main street (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The landscape around Coober Pedy has doubled for everything from post-apocalyptic wastelands to Mars, starring in films like Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Priscilla, Pitch Black (Vin Diesel) and Kangaroo Jack. You’ll stumble across the odd discarded (and the reclaimed) prop just walking around town, such as a Mad Max Interceptor and a ‘blaster’ from Val Kilmer’s flick Red Planet.

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6. It’s amazingly multi-cultural

Underground Serbian Orthodox Church Coober Pedy
Subterranean worship: the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Uncharacteristically for a small Australian country town of only a few thousand souls, Coober Pedy is intensely multicultural. In fact, with 45-plus cultures, from Serbians to Sri Lankans, it could be the most diverse place per capita in Australia. The Greek community is still one of the most dominant.

7. It’s got more opal shops than anywhere else on Earth

Opal shop Coober Pedy
Opal shops are just one of the many places you can buy the precious gems in Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Again, another unofficial Coober Pedy statistic which could or could not be true. But we’re not talking about official shops anyway, of which there are plenty, but more the fact that you can buy a precious gem pretty much anywhere in town: from hotels and cafes to, well, other places that don’t offer money-back guarantees; the backbone of the ‘black opal economy’ here.

8. Most holey

One Coober cliché that lives up to the hype are comparisons with the moon’s surface (because of the countless chasm-like craters from disused mines, each with its own little pile of dirt next to it). There is no ‘backfill’ order in the town (you don’t have to fill in your claim), which gives you an endless choice of where to hide a ‘ratter’ (an opal thief). Well, so the legend goes.

9. Second-chance draw

This lack of a backfill regulation does have an upside, helping out budding and struggling miners who can’t afford the equipment to dig their own claims. It’s estimated that around 40 per cent of opal is found by “secondary" miners and noodlers: people who sift through a mine’s waste dirt. Visitors can do this at a couple of sites in town. You never know.

10. Immortal boots

Legend has it that Coober Pedy’s cemetery, Boot Hill, is named thus because people here work so hard and long that they die, and are buried, with their boots on.

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11. Boiling earth

The Breakaways Coober Pedy
The ground near the Breakaways, 30 kilomotres from Coober Pedy, can reach 65 degrees Celsius (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The desert earth of the ‘Moon Plain’ near the Breakaways Reserve, a stunning rock formation and sacred indigenous site about 30 kilometres outside town, can reach temperatures of 65 degrees when the summer air temps hit 45-plus.

12. Natural air-con

Famously, dugouts (ex-mines or custom-dug underground homes) are the residences of choice in Coober Pedy for one good reason: even when the outside temperatures nudge 50 degrees, the interiors stay in a totally liveable mid-twenties.

13. Underground worship

You can do almost anything underground in Coober Pedy; from eat, drink, visit museums and, of course, worship the denomination of your choice. There are a handful of underground churches including the Serbian Orthodox Church, Anglican Catacomb Church and the Catholic Church of St Peter and St Paul. The catchment area covered by the priest of St Peter and St Paul on his ‘bush run’ is apparently the size of Texas, stretching from the Western Australian border to Birdsville.

Old mining truck Coober Pedy
An old ‘blower’ retires into the Coober Pedy landscape (photo: Jonathan Cami).

 

MORE… Get to Coober Pedy the adventurous way. What’s it like to drive the Explorer’s Way

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Good food, beautiful nature & history: your guide to a long weekend in West Gippsland

(Credit: Rob Blackburn)

    Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
    From rainforest walks and scenic drives to historic gold-rush towns and standout regional dining experiences, you can find it all in West Gippsland.

    Hover over West Gippsland on Google Earth and you’ll see vast tracts of land spread out like green velveteen around the Toorongo Falls Reserve. It’s a landscape that feels almost impossibly lush for a region sitting little more than an hour from Melbourne.

    Track southeast in late autumn and early winter and you’ll see pockets of the Mt Baw Baw Plateau dusted in snow. In addition to the forests of mountain ash veined with creeks and rivers, there are pastures and farmland cross-stitched together to form pretty patchworks.

    But West Gippsland isn’t defined by scenery alone: in addition to its awe-inspiring nature, a Venn diagram of the region includes gold-rush history and great culinary experiences.  Spend a long weekend here and it quickly becomes clear how often these three overlap.

    Getting there

    Messmates Dining west gippsland
    Spend the weekend eating and exploring in West Gippsland. (Credit: Messmates Dining)

    Getting to West Gippsland involves as easy drive – it’s just over an hour out of Melbourne along the Monash Freeway.

    Not driving? Catch the train from Melbourne on the Gippsland line, terminating at either Traralgon or Bairnsdale, and hop off at Warragul or Drouin.

    Visit historic villages

    Walhalla historic township
    Wander into Australia’s Gold Rush history at Walhalla. (Credit: Rob Blackburn)

    The West Gippsland region is on the Traditional Lands of the Kulin and Kurnai nations, specifically linked to the Bunurong, Gunaikurnai and Wurundjeri Peoples, whose connection to Country stretches back thousands of years.

    European settlement occurred in the 19th century as timber cutters, farmers and gold seekers pushed into the region’s dense forests. Small towns grew around sawmills and railway lines, and many of those gold rush settlements, timber towns and railway villages still shape the character of the region today.

    The most evocative of these is Walhalla Historic Township, a remarkably preserved gold-rush township tucked deep in the mountains. In the late 1800s, it was one of Victoria’s richest goldfields. Today visitors can step inside that history at the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine, where underground tours reveal the scale of the mining operation that once powered the town’s prosperity. Nearby, the Walhalla Goldfields Railway retraces part of the original narrow-gauge line through the valley, offering a slow journey past forest and river scenery.

    Further west, Noojee is a classic mountain village. It’s surrounded by dense forest and waterfalls and has become a natural base for exploring the Baw Baw region. Just outside town, Noojee Trestle Bridge stands as one of West Gippsland’s most striking relics of the rail era. The towering wooden structure is the tallest surviving trestle bridge in Victoria and today forms the centrepiece of an easy scenic walk with wide views across the valley.

    Alpine Trout Farm west gippsland
    Catch your own lunch at Alpine Trout Farm. (Credit: Nicky Cawood)

    At Alpine Trout Farm near Noojee, visitors can fish for trout in mountain-fed ponds before enjoying the catch prepared fresh onsite. It’s a simple experience that reflects the area’s long connection to the surrounding waterways.

    Back in Warragul, the region’s main service town, the story shifts from heritage to modern regional life. With galleries, restaurants and sweeping views across the rolling farmland of Gippsland, the town has become a lively hub linking the district’s past with its evolving food and cultural scene. Drive through the town and you’ll find heritage buildings, old pubs and weatherboard cottages that hint at the area’s early days as a frontier landscape.

    In other towns the past survives in quieter ways – a historic hall here, a century-old bakery there.

    Walks, waterfalls and wild places

    Toorongo Falls in west gippsland
    Stroll Toorongo Falls Reserve. (Credit: Nicky Cawood)

    Even simple roadside stops can feel cinematic in West Gippsland. The region also delivers plenty of opportunities to lace up your walking shoes.

    One of the region’s most rewarding nature escapes lies just outside Noojee at Toorongo Falls Reserve. A network of walking tracks winds through the cool-temperate rainforest where towering mountain ash trees filter the light and the air smells of rich, damp earth. The 2.2-kilometre trail to the viewing platform overlooking Toorongo Falls is short, but spectacular, as the water cascades down over moss-covered rock faces into a cool, green gully in Little Toorongo River.

    Further north, the Mount Baw Baw Alpine Resort offers year-round adventures. In winter, the mountain attracts skiers and snowboarders. The warmer months are just as compelling, with scenic drives to see alpine wildflowers, mountain bike trails and panoramic hiking routes that open across the plateau.

    Cyclists and walkers looking for a more relaxed pace can follow the Rokeby Neerim Rail Trail, which traces a former railway line through farmland and small Gippsland villages. The mostly flat trail passes rolling paddocks, creeks and historic bridges, making it an easy way to drop it down a gear when exploring the countryside.

    Taste the best eats of West Gippsland

    Hogget Kitchen west gippsland
    Taste the best of the region at Hogget Kitchen.

    For many travellers, the real drawcards of West Gippsland are the food and wine. The region sits in the heart of Victoria’s fertile dairy country, and that agricultural backdrop has helped shape a dining scene where seasonal produce and local provenance take centre stage.

    Hogget Kitchen has helped put Warragul firmly on the radar for serious regional dining in West Gippsland. Here, head chef and owner Trevor Perkins runs the kitchen alongside well-known winemakers William (Bill) Downie and Pat Sullivan. Hogget Kitchen lives up to its promise of exceptional destination dining; what lands on the table depends largely on what nearby farms have harvested that week as well as a wine list from Wild Dog Winery and other Gippsland producers.

    Warragul is also where you’ll find Messmates Dining where the kitchen team is led by Michelin-trained chefs. The Euro-leaning bistro and wine bar brings a polished edge to the local dining scene using produce sourced from across West Gippsland.

    For something more casual, the century-old Noojee Hotel is the kind of hub that every traveller dreams of finding after a long drive. Expect generous pub classics served on the sunny deck in summer or beside the crackle of a log fire in winter.  Nearby, rustic Toolshed Bar, Bistro & Cabins is the place to go for a wood-fired pizza topped with smoked local trout paired with Gippsland wine, making it a rewarding stop for lunch or an overnight stay.

    Time your visit with the Truffle Festival

    Food lovers visiting in winter should consider timing their trip to coincide with Noojee Truffle Festival, running from 10 July to 2 August 2026. The inaugural event celebrates the region’s emerging truffle industry with tastings, special menus and events built around one of winter’s most prized ingredients.

    Start planning your long weekend in West Gippsland at visitgippsland.com.au.