The essential guide to visiting the Flinders Ranges

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There are great rafts of information published about the Flinders Rangers. Here’s our distilled guide to the essential Flinders Rangers experiences, accommodation and dining options.

Top Five Reasons to Visit the Flinders Ranges

1. It’s the most accessible Outback in Australia, with excellent infrastructure and loads to see and do.

 

2. The ancient rocky landscapes are geographical marvels. Wilpena Pound from the air, the gorges and further north forms of uranium in some rocks are some amazing sights.

 

3. The best 4WD driving in the country, from easy to extremely challenging, half-day to multi-day journeys.

 

4. The walking is some of the most pleasurable outback walking in the country. There’s loads of wildlife. The Heysen trail starts here.

 

5. It’s historically rich. The Manhattan Project scientists were all over the northern Flinders Ranges during the war. Famous explorer Douglas Mawson saw glacial rocks in the Flinders that led him to his more renowned Antarctica expeditions.

Top Five Experiences in the Flinders

1. The Ridge Top Tour, Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Rangers

An outrageously rocky one-way 4WD track has been cut through the Northern Flinders. Piling into the back of a specially designed open top 4WD for the 4.5 hour journey is about more than just appreciating awesome scenery. Guides unearth the amazing geology, flora and fauna in the area. The history of the pioneering characters like Mawson and some of his students (like R S Sprigg who developed the tour) is an insight into one of the many unappreciated eras in Australian history. The highlight is arriving at the fall-off-the-cliff Sillar’s Lookout. Just make sure you’ve been to the bathroom before you leave because climbing to the top is a rough ride and a full bladder is the LAST thing you want.

2. Wilpena Pound Scenic Flight

See the Pound at its best with a morning flight around the edges of the bowl-shaped crater – not formed by a volcano or meteor but the earth’s shifting crust.

Bird's eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges
Bird’s eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges.

3. Sunset on the Chase

Another fierce 4WD (lucky someone else is driving) up to the top of the Chase Ranges to look back at Wilpena Pound and the Elders Ranges as the sunsets. In AT’s opinion, it’s better than the rock sunset. Catered by Rawnsley Park’s Woolshed Restaurant, this two-hour trip is best done with special someone.

4. Arkaba Walking Tours

It’s comfortable walking when you have your own guide and a swag waiting at the end of the day. Wine and dinner is done, all you need to do is carry water and lunch. The guides take you to secret treasures of the ranges, catering each walk to your desired comfort level.

5. Discover an Ancient Land

The full-day tour from Rawnsley Park takes you to the spectacular Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges. Keep an eye out for Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies, Emus and Euros while learning more about the history and geology of the place.

Best Places To Stay

Rawnsley Park Eco Villas

The Eco Villas on Rawnsley are the best value accommodation in the Flinders and are indulgent without being excessive. The huge spaces are great for relaxing after a tough day touring, set up with all the amenities you could want. Sit in the big bed and look up at night to see though the skylights to the stars – just magic. Beautifully designed and crafted, the villas are excellently positioned to take in the sunrise on the Elder ranges.

Wilpena Pound Resort

Recently updated, the old Chalet is now a resort. The Brachina Rooms are our pick but they’re also the closest to the resort reception and restaurant. Try and grab one away from the main entry for a little more privacy. The resort is comfortable but not plush and is the perfect base for exploring the area. From here you can strike out into the pound, take a flight or explore the historic old homesteads.

Arkaba Station

Well, this is living the high life. With just five rooms and a maximum number of 10 guests, this is intimate, exclusive and luxury in the Flinders. The ethos of the station is to make guests feel like a rich uncle has thrown them the keys to a manor and said help yourself. And you do. With a chef on hand for all meals, two hosts and two guides for walking, it’s not hard to enjoy yourself. The 1851 homestead has been beautifully restored and each room has its own quirks. Whether you want a cosy dinner under the stars or a guide-led activity, the ranges are your oyster.

Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

More known for its food than furnishings, the hotel has very comfortable and well-appointed rooms for travellers. The only downside is that they are on the plains fringing the ranges.
From $145 per double

Camping

There are loads of Camping grounds throughout the rangers. The most well maintained are at Wilpena Resort, Rawnsley Park and Arkaroola. Arkaroola also has cottage and lodge accommodation options.

Where to Eat

Woolshed Restaurant

The restaurant in the middle of the outback caters to all tastes and budgets and is a thriving regional hub for all travellers.

Prairie Hotel

World renowned for the Feral Mixed Grill where a camel sausage, emu pattie, goat chop and kangaroo fillet are all dished up on the very foreign mash potato. And for dessert, the quandong pie is a must. The restaurant has carved out a deserved reputation for serving up one of the great outback meals.

Characters

The Sprigg Family

The Sprigg Family (RJ started the private Arkarolla Wilderness Are in 1967) have a huge historical connection to the land and were pioneers of tourism in the area. Unfortunately, RJ passed away in 1994. His children, Margaret and Doug continue the tradition of preserving a spectacular wilderness and can be found at the homestead on most days. They have great yarns to tell.

The Smith Family

Tony and Julie Smith are fifth-generation Flinders Ranges Pastoralists. Passionate farmers, Tony and Julie have moved their business into the tourism sector. Typical farmer, Tony is quietly spoken but a fantastic operator. He and Julie are legends in the area and if you get the opportunity make sure you buy Tony a beer and ask him about the golden fox of the Flinders Ranges.

The Rasheeds

Like the Spriggs, the Rasheeds are synonymous with the area. Original settlers of the Wilpena Chalet, the twin sons of founder Keith and Dean ran separate entities in the area. Both have sold out of their interests but remain in the area. Keith is still involved in the Air Wilpena operation and is well-known for the pink headband on his Akubra and a pink jeep.

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Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.