The best snorkelling and diving sites around Christmas Island

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Proclaimed an Australian Marine Park in 2022, there’s no better time to plan a snorkelling or diving adventure to the pristine waters off Christmas Island.

Christmas Island first appeared about 60 million years ago when the peak of a basalt volcanic seamount (submarine volcano) rose steeply some 5000 metres from the ocean floor. Located in the Indian Ocean, which wraps around the bays and beaches like a piece of glittering tin, Christmas Island is a magnet for ocean lovers, divers and snorkellers who are drawn to the unique marine environment that is oft-described as Australia’s Galapagos. Christmas Island has now been declared a marine park – here is our guide to the best snorkelling and diving sites dotted around Christmas Island, where the average water temperatures range from a balmy 27 to 29°C.

Best beaches and coves for snorkelling on Christmas Island

Flying Fish Cove

Snorkellers are advised to wear reef shoes to protect their feet from sharp coral and stonefish as they enter the warm clear waters of the Indian Ocean from Flying Fish Cove. The cove is popular with families due to the fact it’s a relatively protected swimming area and has BBQ facilities to boot; it’s also a top spot to surf when there’s a swell running. According to Diveplanit.com, 90 per cent of all the species that are found on Christmas Island can be found in Flying Fish Cove, including the freckled hawkish, octopus, hawksbill turtles, lionfish and blue-lined surgeonfish. The beach faces west, so arrive to see the setting sun colour the horizon, cold drink in hand. Join Christmas Island Freedive instructor David Mulheron in the clear, calm waters off Flying Fish Cove, which is an 80-metre swim from the jetty. The champion freediver believes Christmas Island to be one of the best freediving locations in the world and will guide you to some amazing coral gardens. Flying Fish Cove is also a popular surfing spot.

 

Best for: Families and freediving enthusiasts

Underneath Flying Fish Cove.

Underneath Flying Fish Cove.

Ethel Beach

The waters off Ethel Beach are a great option for snorkelling and swimming if the seas off Flying Fish Cove are too rough. As with all of the beaches on CI, you will need to consider the prevailing conditions on the day before you make a decision to enter the water. The colourful reefs that fringe Ethel Beach are teeming with marine life and this northern section of the Christmas Island coastline has some of the most pristine examples of unspoiled coral in the world just offshore. Look out from shore for giant frigate birds and the flick of a whale shark tail during the season and keep your eyes peeled for pelagic fish such as wahoo while in the water. Again, reef shoes should be worn on the beach to protect your feet. Those who suffer from seasickness will be pleased to know it’s just a short boat ride away to encounter whale sharks and manta rays.

 

Best for: Keen snorkellers

Christmas Island crabs at Ethel Beach

Ethel Beach is teeming with marine life in and out of the water.

West White Beach

West White Beach is located on the island’s north coast and features a tall forest of trees that seem to dance and sway in unison, like a chorus line. The trek to get to the beach is quite challenging and, after a moderately difficult hike through the beautiful rainforest, access to the beach is gained via a rope designed to facilitate the descent down a small but steep section of the cliff. Make sure you wear sturdy walking shoes and bring a backpack so you can fill it with water bottles and snorkel gear. A pair of polarised sunglasses are also required to cut down on the glare bouncing off the gleaming white-sand beach and better appreciate those spectacular views. Snorkelling is a must-do while on Christmas Island due to the dazzling array of fish and the fact you might find yourself swimming alongside turtles or dolphins.

 

Best for: Fitness freaks

Swim alongside tropical fish.

Swim alongside tropical fish.

Dolly Beach

The trees act as a windbreak on Dolly Beach, which is a pretty, quiet pocket just 30 minutes from town and accessible by a boardwalk that meanders through the rainforest. Understand why the tag Australia’s Galapagos has merit when you dance barefoot along this secluded beach which is a nesting place for marine turtles; visitors to the beach will often come across the tracks of adults and hatchlings who have waddled across the sand. Dolly Beach is fringed by palms, which appeals to the resident coconut crabs. The giant crabs, also known as robber crabs, are the world’s biggest land crustaceans and seeing them lurching along the sand is surreal.

 

Best for: Wildlife lovers

Marine turtles Dolly Beach

Marine turtles nest on and around Dolly Beach.

Winifred Beach

This pretty little beach can only be accessed by 4WD at low tide, which means you will often have it to yourself. After bouncing along a rough section of the pot-holed track, which runs like a frayed ribbon through the rainforest, you will arrive at Winifred Beach car park, and it’s totally worth it. You must then descend via a steep cliff-face staircase to the beach. After a few hours snorkelling, explore the rockpools where the water eddies around your ankles, write your name in a flowery script in the sand and look out for spinner dolphins frolicking offshore. Check with the Visitor Centre for daily tide times and talk to the team at Extra Divers to arrange a guided snorkelling session or take a deeper dive from their boat on a half-day dive trip. Time your visit to the island between November to April to see giant whale sharks cruising around Christmas Island.

 

Best for: Intrepid types

Extra Divers Christmas Island

Go diving with the team at Extra Divers.

Best sites for diving on Christmas Island

West White Beach Cave

Enter the West White Beach Cave adjacent to White Beach via one of two large entrances separated by a large limestone column, with the walls of the chamber painted a rainbow of colours and shelved with whips, fans and electric clams. Novice snorkellers will be buoyed by the fact the cave is only 12 metres deep, so it is not claustrophobic. Venture outside the mouth of the cave to brave the 12-metre to 18-metre drop-off into the big blue, which is a comfortable descent for those new to diving.

 

Best for: Diving newbies will appreciate this gentle introduction to cave diving, as they don’t need to venture too deep to see the colourful reef.

 

Highlight for visitors: Getting a few shots for your Instagram silhouetted against the blue backdrop.

West White Beach Cave

Enter the West White Beach Cave.

Perpendicular Wall

Christmas Island emerges from the Java Trench, which is about 3000 metres deep, and is lapped by seas that change from aquamarine to cobalt blue and minty green. The dive to Perpendicular Wall starts off in a shallow cave, where the seafloor is decorated with red fan coral, like beautiful branching bouquets. Swim out to a wall that reveals schools of triggerfish and pyramid butterflyfish feeding on algae, which spills over sections of the reef like a fuzzy neon-green fringe.

 

Best for: Divers who like to go to great depths to tick off rare and unusual fish species.

 

Highlight for visitors: The high probability of seeing manta rays, whale sharks and other large pelagic fish.

Flying Fish Cove

Head to the western edge of Flying Fish Cove and follow the boat ramp to the drop-off point, which is about 18 metres deep, where a huge wall of water suddenly turns translucent blue. Ranked by Diveplanit.com as ‘one of the best shore dives on the planet’, Flying Fish Cove is home to a whopping 90 per cent of all the species found around Christmas Island. To be guided by an expert, CI Fishing and Adventure offer intimate snorkelling charters for small groups, or if it’s just you and your diving buddy, be sure to flipper over the edge of the drop-off; it’s like falling in slow-motion through melting glass.

 

Best for: Those new to diving who are looking for an easy, accessible experience.

 

Highlight for visitors: According to locals, you will see more fish and coral species in one dive here than you’ll see across the island.

Flying Fish

Flying Fish offers an easy, accessible experience.

Thundercliff Cave

The entrance to Thundercliff Cave is submerged, so to access it, you must first descend six metres to a corrugated sandy bottom and then swim into the inky gloom through an almost Gothic archway. You can surface once inside Thundercliff Cave as there is a large air pocket. The large limestone cavern features a spectacular collection of stalactites, like Gaudi-esque chandeliers dripping down from the ceiling. This almost make-believe landscape also includes a smaller tunnel then opens out into a second large chamber where you can also surface for a breather.

 

Best for: Beginner-level divers with cave certification.

 

Highlight for visitors: The beautiful beds of coral resemble flower gardens and attract huge flocks of resident batfish.

Million Dollar Bommie

Underwater photographers from around the world have the Million Dollar Bommie on their bucket list. It’s considered one of the best diving spots on Christmas Island and is certainly up there as one of the best diving spots in the world. The bommie is about seven metres high, growing up from a base of about 26 metres, and wearing a pretty pettiskirt made out of delicate sea fans. Find pigfish, mimic surgeonfish and red fire gobi peeking out between the sea fans and coral overhangs, which offer spectacular backdrops for photography. You might also spot Meyer’s butterflyfish, coral trout, damsel fish, fusiliers, triggerfish, and rock cod.

 

Best for: Advanced, experienced divers

 

Highlight for visitors: The Million Dollar Bommie is a huge draw for divers because of the variety of fish living in a single, concentrated area. The light on the top of the bommie is cinematic, and the candy-coloured coral makes it a great place to photograph fish. Keep your eye out for a majestic manta ray, which can often be found flying through the water.

Rhoda Wall

Rhoda Wall is a magic place for pelagic lovers and, on a clear day, the visibility is so good it’s like looking through a pane of glass. Peer down into the pale blue from the comfort of your dive boat and you may be able to see grey reef sharks gliding through the water 30 metres below. There is no shortage of great diving sites around Christmas Island, but this coral-lined wall off the northwest coast of the island is full of wonders, sloping down gently in graded shades of blue before falling into a vertical wall at the 20-metre mark. Find great examples of fractal coral and hydrocorals here and colourful tropical reef fish swirling about. Beyond the slope there are some beautiful coral stacks, like packs of colourful cards, and large plate corals, too. Be one of just six divers on an intimate tour with Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures, who have been operating on the island since 1996. Japanese-born operator Teruki Hamanaka says while most divers are happy with a full-length 3mm wetsuit, those who feel the cold can also request a 5 mm steamer or a neoprene hood.

 

Best for: Advanced divers

 

Highlight for visitors: There are some beautiful royal blue hydrocorals attached to the wall like artworks and yellow and pink fusiliers that dart up and down the wall. Look out for megafauna: during the season (November to March), you are likely to see massive whale sharks swimming by.

Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures

Be one of just six divers on an intimate tour with Christmas Island Wet n Dry Adventures.

 

Read our guide to Christmas Island for more about this unique Indian Ocean destination.
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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15 things you didn’t know about Christmas Island

    By Imogen Eveson
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    Located 2600 km north-west of Perth and closer to Asia than to mainland Australia, Christmas Island is unlike anywhere you’ve ever visited before.

    Christmas Island, unfairly, is no stranger to bad headlines. So if the only thing you know about this tropical island in the middle of the Indian Ocean is what you’ve read in the news, read on to find out why – between its luxury eco-retreat, unique wildlife encounters and secret swimming spots – it might just be Australia’s best-kept secret, and one of the most unforgettable places you’ll ever visit.

    1. It’s a tropical jungle paradise

    With a tropical climate that enjoys balmy temperatures in the mid-20s year-round and a landscape characterised by lush jungle and an emerald-green coastline, Christmas Island is a true island paradise. It’s home to a dazzling array of rare and unusual birds and a crazy numbers of crabs, not to mention secret swimming spots and jungle waterfalls – and 63 per cent of its footprint is designated national park.

     

    Tropical reefs teeming with life lie beyond the shoreline; with water temperatures bobbing around a clement 28°C, they make for some of the best diving and snorkelling spots you’ll find anywhere.

    Christmas Island is a true paradise.

    2. It’s home to one of Australia’s most remote and exclusive eco-lodges

    Swell Lodge is Christmas Island’s first luxury eco-retreat, set deep within the jungle of Christmas Island National Park on the edge of a cliff-side that drops away into the Indian Ocean. Its two solar-powered eco chalets are completely secluded from each other and thoughtfully designed in suitably natural and oceanic tones.

     

    The pièce de résistance in each eco-chalet is an expansive private deck that provides your very own audience with the Indian Ocean – with its mighty swell and mesmerising sunsets. A stay at Swell Lodge is an all-inclusive experience, and includes dinner prepared on your deck each night by your very own chef, who works creatively and expertly with ingredients foraged straight from the jungle.

     

    By day, guided activities include everything from nature trails to waterfalls, hidden beaches, swimming holes and the magical wetland area known as the Dales (a popular crab hangout), to boat trips out to some of the island’s best snorkelling spots. In-chalet yoga sessions and massages are also on hand for when you need a little downtime after all that adventuring.

    Swell Lodge is Christmas Island’s first luxury eco-retreat.

    You can find more Christmas Island accommodation here.

    3. It’s closer to Asia than mainland Australia

    A trip to Christmas Island lets you feel like you’re leaving the country without having to think about visa requirements or plug adaptors: a speck in the Indian Ocean 2600 kilometres north-west of Perth, this Australian territory is closer to Asia than to mainland Australia; its nearest neighbour is Java, just 360 kilometres away. A direct flight from the WA capital takes just under four hours (and departs from the international terminal – all part of the adventure).

    Virgin Australia runs flights twice a week from Perth.

     

    Merrial Beach on Christmas Island

    Christmas Island is a wild destination in the Indian Ocean that’s closer to Asia than Perth. (Image: Christmas Island Tourism Association)

    4. It has some of Australia’s best – and most hidden – beaches

    Secluded, fringed by coconut palms and only accessible via a forest boardwalk, Dolly Beach on Christmas Island’s east coast was voted seventh best beach in Australia by Tourism Australia beach ambassador Brad Farmer in 2017. And it’s just one of many similarly hidden gems on the island.

     

    While its 80-kilometre coastline is dominated by an almost continuous sea cliff, it gives way to some shallow bays and a series of small and impossibly pretty sand and coral shingle beaches. There’s even one so petite, Merrial Beach (only accessible at low tide), that it comfortably accommodates a couple of people at a time; local ‘law’ dictates that if you already see a car parked at the trail’s entrance, drive on.

    Explore Australia’s best – and most hidden – beaches. (Photo: Chris Bray)

    5. There are secret swimming spots to discover

    One of the joys of a trip to Christmas Island is getting to experience its myriad secret swimming holes, from a grotto associated with Chinese legend to Hughs Dale Waterfall (which makes not so much for a swimming spot as it does a rainforest shower spot).

    Hughes Dale Waterfall Christmas Island

    Indulge in a rainforest shower at Hughs Dale Waterfall.

    Take the mostly easy 1.5-kilometre walk through the rainforest along a boardwalk to get to the Hughs Dale Waterfall. This waterfall is set within the Dales, a unique wetland ecosystem that is fed from streams that bubble up from underground caves that flow into the ocean and have resulted in pooling water that has hewn a series of gorges into the landscape over time.

     

    The Grotto, a sandy-floored hidden pool drenched with streaks of sunlight flowing in from the entrance of the cave, is equally magical and just a 10-minute drive from the Settlement. Then there are the island’s many beaches to explore; put Lily Beach at the top of your list, it is surrounded by cliffs on both sides and the at low tide the ocean recedes to reveal a collection of pretty rock pools to explore.

    6. Christmas Island has some of the world’s best snorkelling and diving

    Ringed by tropical reef, Christmas Island erupts dramatically from the edge of the Java Trench, the Indian Ocean’s deepest point – and with practically no coastal shelf, this means the water plummets to a depth of about 500 metres not far offshore, which means you don’t have to sail (or swim) very far to find some spectacular diving walls. All this combines to make for some of the best snorkelling and diving conditions in the world.

     

    Take a day trip out with Christmas Island Wet ‘n’ Dry Adventures (an option when you stay at Swell Lodge) to explore untouched corals and shipwrecks and meet all manner of tropical fish including surgeon fish, wrasse, butterfly fish and giant trevally. You might even spot dolphins, sea turtles, and, between November and April, the majestic whale shark.

    Christmas Island has some of the world’s best snorkelling and diving.

    7. You can see crabs all year round. Lots of ’em.

    You might have heard of the annual red crab migration that takes place on Christmas Island and was made famous by Sir David Attenborough; the naturalist has described witnessing this phenomenon while shooting a documentary in 1990 as one of his greatest TV moments.

     

    An estimated 40 to 50 million bright red land crabs live in shady spots all over the island and every year, with the first rainfall of the wet season, they start their merry march across the island to the ocean to breed – swarming across roads, streams, rocks and beaches and turning them all into blankets of red. The migration (which can happen anytime between October and January) is the island’s biggest tourist attraction but if your visit doesn’t coincide, rest assured you’ll still see crabs. Lots of ’em.

     

    In fact, their proliferation contributes to a sense of ‘island time’ – the time it takes you to drive anywhere is dependent on how many crabs you must carefully navigate around and gently sweep off the road (your Swell Lodge hosts will show you how). In fact, you get so used to this idiosyncratic island ritual that it makes going to home to crab-free roads a rather strange sensation at first.

    The annual crab migration is a sight to behold.

    8. But it’s not all about the red crabs

    The red crab is just one of 14 species of land crab that lives on Christmas Island. There’s also the endemic Christmas Island blue crab – with its beautiful sky-blue hues – and the coconut crab, the largest land-living arthropod in the world that’s also known as the robber crab on account of its thieving tendencies. Christmas Island hosts the largest and best-protected population of these magnificent creatures in the world.

    Keep your eyes peeled for a blue crab.

    9. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise

    People flock (pun intended) from around the world to catch sight of Christmas Island frigatebird patrolling the sky, the rarest of its kind in the world, and the Abbott’s booby, a species of the seabird that only breeds here on the island. There are hundreds of bird species here, with seven of the 13 land birds endemic to the island. Watch out for the elegant golden bosun, the melodious Christmas Island thrush and the elusive Christmas Island hawk owl.

     

    One place you’re all but guaranteed a sighting of an Abbott’s booby, or one of the island’s other feathered friends, is during feeding time at the volunteer-run bird rehabilitation centre at the Parks Australia headquarters.

    There are hundreds of bird species on the island.

    10. And a natural scientist’s dream, too

    With so many endemic species, Christmas Island is considered the Galápagos of the Indian Ocean; you’ll meet plenty of PhD students out here researching its weird and wonderful fauna. Their efforts are focused on the Pink House, a research station in the middle of the rainforest that includes a reptile house and Lizard Lounge, which is open to tourists every Wednesday.

     

    Here, Parks Australia is busy breeding the blue-tail lizard, which is extinct in the wild, and other endemic reptiles

    11. Christmas Island is a melting pot of cultures

    The island is home to a multicultural community that harmoniously blends Buddhist, Christian, Taoist and Muslim residents. The foundation of this melting pot was laid in the late 19th century, when Britain annexed Christmas Island to claim its valuable phosphate deposits and migrant workers, including Chinese, Malays and Sikhs, arrived from overseas to staff the mine and its operations.

     

    The island became an Australian territory in 1958 and today its 2000-strong population, focused largely on the settlement at Flying Fish Cove, is a mixture of Chinese and Malay Australians as well as people from mainland Australia. Watch out for the Taoist temples and shrines that overlook the ocean, and the gleaming mosque in Kampong, the island’s traditionally Malay neighbourhood.

    You’ll find the melting pot of cultures reflected in the architecture on Christmas Island.

    12. It’s got one of the world’s most unique golf courses

    This one’s for those who like their nine-hole golf course with a view. Australia’s northernmost golf course is located among palm trees and tropical rainforest with a sweeping view of the Indian Ocean. Just watch out for robber crabs trying to pinch your golf ball. Established in 1955, the golf course hosts the Christmas Island Golf Open every year in May.

    13. There’s even an open-air cinema

    Cap off your unique island experience by watching a movie in the balmy open-air of Christmas Island Outdoor Cinema. Established in the ’80s, this community-based organisation is run by volunteers and screens new-release and cult-classic movies at 7.30pm every Saturday. Tickets are just $5 a pop for adults and $2 for children (up to 17 years), and there’s a kiosk, too, selling choc tops, popcorn and other snacks.

    14. You can stopover in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

    Get two holidays for one when you visit Christmas Island by stopping over in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands – another external Australian territory in the Indian Ocean, about halfway between Perth and Sri Lanka.

    Of the two return flights between Perth and Christmas Island a week, one leg of each goes via the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. This atoll of 27 islands, of which only two are inhabited (with a tiny community of about 600 Cocos Malay people), is a perfect complement to a stay on Christmas Island. Both fall into tropical paradise territory: whereas Christmas Island is all wild jungle and dramatic sea cliffs, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands are all long stretches of white-sand beaches fringed by lazily swaying palm trees.

    Cocos Keeling Islands Beach

    The waters off the island are famously pristine.

    15. Christmas Island is a freediver’s dream

    A dreamy destination for both the professional freedivers and for those wanting to learn the skills to dive beneath the surface on one breath. Australian freediving champion and AIDA/Molchanovs instructor David Mulheron, has a passion for teaching others to freedive. Christmas Island is blessed with crystal clear water, incredible marine life and freedivers are blessed with the luxury of the reef dropping off only a short swim from shore. You won’t believe what you can see in just one breath.

     

    Whether you are a complete newbie or are fine-tuning your skills, you will learn techniques in a short period of time that will leave you feeling confident and in awe of what your body is capable of. Our tip would be to schedule your freediving course for the first two days of your trip, that way you can continue to improve your skills every day for the rest of your visit to this remote slice of paradise.

    Freediving with Dave Mulheron on Christmas Island

    Learn to freedive to explore the underwater paradise of Christmas Island.

    Read our guide to Christmas Island for more about this unique Indian Ocean destination.