Exploring the Budj Bim Cultural Landscape

Take a diversion away from the Great Ocean Road to the World Heritage Site of Budj Bim Cultural Landscape, where the Gunditjmara community is sharing its remarkable story of ancient enterprise with the world.

With eyes closed and face directed to the barely fathomable beyond, there comes a tremendous awareness of the firm stone beneath my feet. This rock has been relentlessly pummelled by saltwater for millennia. Yet, even after all those thousands of years colliding with ocean and wind, it remains steadfast.

The brisk coastal wind makes landfall from its journey beyond the horizon, whipping windcheaters into sails and tussling untethered hairs with the same stoicism. And the ocean itself, bridled by lunar whims, carries on with its undeviating rhythm, in and out, in and out.

It’s a cathartic reminder of just how insignificant our impression here is. None of us will outlive this stone, but some of us do leave a scarce but meaningful trace within it. Eyes open now, my brain plunges into overdrive as it processes the beauty funnelled from retina to optic nerve.

Tracing the ancient aboriginal site Moyjil

The information returns as sapphire-blue waters, clear and contrasted by rich, gold sands. A gently rippled, lagoon-like river patiently ebbs to embrace the Bass Strait, sidestepping the craggy yet dignified rock formations.

This is Moyjil, located in Victoria’s south-west, which you may have heard of by its European moniker, Point Ritchie. But if anyone has naming rights at this incredible junction of river and sea, it’s the Gunditjmara people. They have been here for around 60,000, possibly even 80,000, years.

The scientific evidence gathered from their scarce trace of shell middens embedded in that steadfast rock, and other indicators of human activity, is still percolating on that larger figure. However, some of Australia’s top geologists are quietly confident Moyjil could be the country’s oldest site of Aboriginal occupation.

an aerial shot of the Point Richie lookout and beautiful rocks at dusk — Dusk paints the sky at Moyjil, or Point Ritchie, a popular lookout at Warrnambool in south-west Victoria.

Preserving the cultural heritage of the Gunditjmara people

As such, this bracingly beautiful point is of gargantuan importance to the Gunditjmara people and, indeed, all people. It’s a visitable window to their ancestors and a reminder of how they lived in a mutually beneficial accord with nature.

A promise of protection in return for the gift of sustenance. This sustainable way of life is both fundamental and non-negotiable to Indigenous Australians and it’s through this looking glass I have clamoured to discover this incredible region.

Moyjil is a punctuation mark on the Great Ocean Road, but by touring south-western Victoria through Gunditjmara Country, I’m leaving the ogling of the 12 Apostles and craggy coastline to others. Instead, I’m straining to learn more about the ancestral guardianship of Country here. In fact, it’s National Sorry Day as I stand in reverie at Moyjil as an Indigenous woman and travel companion Ash Bartley invites our small group to remember and question the Stolen Generation.

a Gunditjmara guide leading the Budj Bim family tour — Visitors can join a variety of tours led by Gunditjmara guides.

Listening to the wind and sea, you can almost sense the presence of ancient humans gathering on the rocks below to share a degustation of shellfish. It’s staggering to realise that six millennia of cultural practice was virtually obliterated in the space of a hundred years, and this sun-drenched holiday idyll that once sustained generations of families, now provides quick photo ops and toilet stops for busloads of tourists.

the view of Aquaculture Centre from the lake — Visit Tae Rak Aquaculture Centre to see traditional methods used to trap kooyang (eels).

Indeed, we surely could have skipped a lot of unnecessary environmental and emotional scarring if we could bend time onto itself, folding up centuries of heartache and destruction to arrive at a place of deep appreciation for our First Peoples and their connection to Country. But the good news is that a generation of Gunditjmara people guided by Elders here in south-west Victoria are leading a restoration of the continuity of connection to Country and embarking on a sharing and teaching of long-held wisdom.

“We never say knowledge is lost," says Ash, “we say it’s dormant." Moving inland from Moyjil, a crystalised example of this can be experienced at the World Heritage Site of Budj Bim Cultural Landscape, which comprises three main components: Budj Bim National Park (north), which includes the long-extinct volcano formerly known as Mt Eccles; Kurtonitj (central), which means ‘crossing place’; and the ceremonial wetlands of Tyrendarra (south), all of which show extensive evidence of the largest and oldest-known aquaculture system in the world.

an aerial view of the woodlands and wetlands of Budj Bim — The woodlands and wetlands of Budj Bim are sacred to the Gunditjmara people.

How the Budj Bim story is tied to Mt Eccles

The Budj Bim lava flows are the spindly fingers that connect these components. It’s here, in the 5470-hectare area, the Gunditjmara created channels, dams and weirs in the pursuit of the kooyang (eel). For at least 6600 years, those slippery little fish sustained enterprising humans who coaxed and engineered the natural topography to ensnare them.

black swans populating Lake Condah — Lake Condah is home to a large variety of water birds such as black swans. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michael Turtle)

Proof of the antiquity of this aquaculture system and the knowledge carried with it has firmly sealed the landscape’s World Heritage criteria and, with it, the preservation of an endlessly important cultural archive. It’s been a decades-long journey to find a way to bring history back from the brink.

“For the past 40 years, the Gunditjmara community has worked on how best to share the Budj Bim story with the world," explains Budj Bim managing director Damein Bell. “Through that time, particularly the past 20 years, it’s been a process of deciding how we best share the story to protect the story."

the flora and fauna in Budj Bim — The flora and fauna are part of this cultural landscape. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michael Turtle)

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Tyrendarra Indigenous Protected Area

Part of that sharing is taking shape southwards, at the volcanic landscape of Tyrendarra, which came into existence following a guttural hiccup from Budj Bim some 27,000 years ago. When I visit, morning has only just peeped out from behind the cold dawn and my breath is as visible as a car’s exhaust.

The beauty such coolness wreaks on these wetlands is exquisite. Heavy mist veils the sun’s radiance turning the atmosphere opaque, as if the world ceases to exist beyond its thick cloak.

In places where its weakened beams penetrate, intricate spider webs are bejewelled with crystal droplets, so elegant they look like adornments for fairy queens.

scenic wetlands and stony rises at Tae Rak Aquaculture Centre — Stony rises from ancient lava flows surround Tae Rak Aquaculture Centre.

Dreaming trails and cultural sites

Slender reeds dance under the rippling channels and birdsong drifts on the breeze, harmonising with the soft shushing of grasses.

As beautiful as this scene is, it’s not what it once was. Years of farming has desecrated the area, repurposing rocks once used to make stone-based huts into low walls to corral livestock who nonchalantly trampled history under hoof.

Still, enough of the evidence remains to cement these wetlands as integral to the aquaculture complex and it continues, as it has for millennia, to be an important cultural site and part of Dreaming trails for the Gunditjmara people.

Soon, visitors will be able to observe the fascinating enterprise of the interconnected channels and strategically placed dams designed to store eels “like a fridge," says guide coordinator Braydon Saunders. The site will also include re-creations of traditional huts that sheltered families as they settled into this eel-farming and trading community.

an elevated walkway in Tyrendarra — New raised walkways at Tyrendarra within the Budj Bim Cultural Landscape show off the sophisticated fish traps at the cultural site. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Pathways and boardwalks for visitors

Tyrendarra is co-owned by Parks Victoria and the Gunditj Mirring Traditional Owners Aboriginal Corporation, which have worked to prepare the site for visitors. Braydon says Covid enabled the corporation time to involve the community on how best to present Tyrendarra and, once open, you’ll be able to follow interpretation pathways and boardwalks to truly immerse in what Tyrendarra was and remains to be for the Gunditjmara people.

Another of Budj Bim’s northern components, Tae Rak (Lake Condah) is welcoming all with the aroma of gently smoked eel at the new lakeside Aquaculture Centre and Cafe. Designed by Cooper Scaife Architects, the ultra-sleek building blends smoothly into the environment and houses a bush tucker cafe where you can enjoy coffee and cake, sample a kooyang tasting plate, or tuck into dishes such as gnocchi with native mint pesto.

visitors traversing an elevated walkway — Traverse the scenic path across the verdant terrain. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michael Turtle)

Swampy depressions with eel traps

Visitors can also view aquaculture tanks where those life-sustaining short-fin eels dart about, unaware of their future as an arancini ball at the cafe. The centre has been open for less than a year, but Damein is impressed with how both visitors to the area and the local community have embraced it.

“For the amount of time it has taken to get ready, it has been generational," he says. “So it’s wonderful to see our Elders sitting on the verandah here enjoying a coffee." The 1700 hectares of wetlands and stony rises surrounding Tae Rak were formed an estimated 8000 years ago and have since been in service to local wildlife as a utopian sanctuary.

Follow the walkway to the lake’s edge where black swans glide with stealth and watch the sun hover just above the surface. Or better yet, join a guided tour, as Damein says, “to yarkeen Gunditjmara" (‘to see Country’) and learn of the stories held within the stones here and about the restoration of Tae Rak.

Find eel-holding tanks at Tae Rak Aquaculture Centre. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michael Turtle)

A relaxing spot to reflect and unwind

The lake provides a serene spot to pause in reverie, marvelling at how human memory extends back thousands of years through the oral traditions of the Gunditjmara. Ancient narrations from those who witnessed Budj Bim’s explosion and its subsequent significance have been carefully tended, wrapped in ceremony, and presented to each new generation.

They are as real as the imprint embedded in rock at Moyjil and the altered landscape of Budj Bim. And finally, under the custodianship of modern-day Gunditjmara, who have drawn the world’s attention to this place with their desire to nourish a continual connection to Country, the buds of this ancestral knowledge are once again opening towards the sun. “We wanted the world to know what we’ve got here," says Damein, “so they can help protect it."

an aerial photo of Point Ritchie Lookout at sunset — Witness spectacular sunset views.

Getting there

Budj Bim Cultural Landscape is a four-hour drive west (326 kilometres) of Melbourne via Geelong, two hours (167 kilometres) from the 12 Apostles along the Great Ocean Road via Warrnambool and less than an hour’s drive (68 kilometres) north-west of Port Fairy.

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Eating there

Noodledoof Brewing and Distilling Co

Not far from the beguiling Tower Hill is the town of Koroit, where you can replenish energy with a fortifying drink and meal at Noodledoof. Try a tipple that makes excellent use of native ingredients informed by local Indigenous social enterprise Worn Gundidj.

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel

With diners’ eyes transfixed on Wurgarri (Mt Sturgeon), chef Robin Wickens has his work cut out for him diverting their attention to the plate. But he does so with an impeccable degustation in the elegant, timber-hued dining room. For a more casual experience, head to the hotel’s Parker Street Project.

Staying there

Oak and Anchor

This boutique accommodation is housed in an elegant, refurbished heritage hotel in Port Fairy. The lodging is the perfect base for day trips to Tae Rak, Kurtonitj and, eventually, Tyrendarra.

Alkina Lodge

With lawns populated by kangaroos, these four-bedroom architecturally designed luxe lodges are a serene expression of minimalism, allowing complete immersion in the stunning landscape beyond.

Things to do there

Narana Aboriginal Cultural Centre

There’s no better way to embark on an excursion of cultural learning than with a visit to Narana (meaning a ‘place of deep understanding’ in language). Meet native animals, explore the art gallery and enjoy a coffee in the cafe.

Worn Gundidj at Tower Hill

The site of Victoria’s largest dormant volcano, Tower Hill is a must-stop on any south-western Victorian itinerary. Layer its beauty and geological significance with its importance to First Peoples on an Indigenous culture tour.

a couple looking out at the stunning landscape from the Tower Hill — Catch stunning views from the Tower Hill. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wildlife Wonders

Not far from Apollo Bay, this convergence of forest and sea is also home to an Australian wildlife sanctuary where you can glimpse a hot list of native fauna, such as wallabies, bandicoots and koalas.

a koala on a tree branch — Meet the locals at Wildlife Wonders. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Tae Rak Guided Culture Walk

Learn about local lore, eel harvesting and the far-reaching history of the lake and surrounding wetlands on a two-hour tour with a Gunditjmara guide.

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten, the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery, a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho, José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits. At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial, which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat — Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat — The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat — Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat — An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery — Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle, ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.

Experience the remarkable Budj Bim Cultural Landscape

Take a diversion away from the Great Ocean Road to the World Heritage Site of Budj Bim Cultural Landscape, where the Gunditjmara community is sharing its remarkable story of ancient enterprise with the world.

Tracing the ancient aboriginal site Moyjil

Preserving the cultural heritage of the Gunditjmara people

How the Budj Bim story is tied to Mt Eccles