Discover the ‘Kakadu of the South’ – a hidden marvel on the Murray

An oasis of wetlands, wildlife and walking trails await.

If you consider yourself an outdoor enthusiast, you’re probably well-versed in Australia’s natural wonders, from national parks and UNESCO sites to deserts, mountains and islands. But there are many picturesque pockets of the country that remain elusive to even the most seasoned explorers – places like Gunbower Forest. Chances are you haven’t heard of it before – but once you have, you’ll be planning a visit, stat.

Where is Gunbower Forest and why should I visit?

Tucked away in rural Victoria, Gunbower Forest sits pretty on the banks of the Murray River – the only place in Australia to make National Geographic’s Best of the World list in 2025. The wetlands cover almost 20,000 hectares of the Murray floodplain, making it Australia’s largest inland island and creating a unique ecosystem that has remained relatively untouched for centuries.

The Murray River made National Geographic’s 2025 Best of the World list.

Flora and fauna

Gunbower Forest is home to an array of native birdlife, including white-bellied sea eagles, spoonbills, kingfishers, herons and sparrows. Rare reptilian species like the endangered carpet python can be spotted, as well as freshwater turtles, frogs, blue-tongue lizards and goannas.

Many mammals live here too, from kangaroos, wombats and swamp wallabies to emus, sugar gliders and pygmy possums. The wetlands also provide a safe environment for native fish to flourish, such as golden perch, Murray River cod and the native Australian catfish. Obviously, it’s paradise for any animal lover.

Keep your eyes peeled for the adorable swamp wallaby. (Image: Getty Images/Bkamprath)

More of a botany buff? Gunbower Forest is a haven of diverse vegetation, from native woodlands full of red gums and river box eucalypts to both sedgelands and rushlands. These two types of wetlands are distinctly different – characterised by the types of plants that grow there – but in certain conditions, they thrive alongside each other.

River box eucalypts are a dominant floodplain tree in the Murray. (Image: Getty Images/John Wallace)

Due to these rare environmental circumstances, Gunbower Forest has been listed as one of just 65 Ramsar sites across Australia. The Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, also known as the Ramsar Convention, was signed in Iran back in February 1971.

The treaty aims to protect rare wetlands of significant biological diversity – just like Gunbower Forest. This unique status, as well as its remarkable biosphere of plants and wildlife is exactly why it’s been dubbed the ‘Kakadu of the South’ – and why it’s worth a visit.

How to spend your time at Gunbower Forest

Those keen to explore this incredible destination won’t be short on things to do. A great way to experience Gunbower Forest is simply by walking through it. Try the 3.2-kilometre Goanna Walking Trail, a gentle riverside walk perfect for wildlife spotting. Or BYO kayak and paddle the Safes Lagoon Canoe Trail, then pull over for a picnic lunch or head to one of the Murray’s sandy bends to set up there.

See it all from the water on a self-guided kayak tour. (Image: Campaspe Shire Council)

The wetlands are part of the new Murray River Adventure Trail as well – an expanse of connected walking, cycling and paddling trails that cross over 500 kilometres of country Victoria. The project is in its final stages of development, slated to open in late 2025. There are also plenty of camping spots, so you won’t have to squeeze it all into one day, either. But if that’s all the time you have, the leisurely Gunbower Island Forest Drive packs all the highlights into a half-day trip.

Murray River Adventure Trail in Victoria

Gunbower Forest is part of the new Murray River Adventure Trail.

Gunbower Forest is a place of deep significance for its Traditional Owners, the Barapa Barapa and Yorta Yorta people, who actively care for Country. There are a number of cultural sites that can be visited, just be sure to remain respectful at all times.

How to get to Gunbower Forest

Gunbower Forest is located near the town of Koondrook in northern Victoria, around a 3.5-hour drive from Melbourne. The quickest route is along the Calder Freeway. If you’re coming from Sydney, fly into Bendigo Airport and hire a car for the two-hour drive. Entry to Gunbower Forest is free and there is plenty of parking onsite once you arrive.

The Mornington Peninsula’s newest bathhouse just became a complete wellness destination with the addition of The Sanctuary.

It’s a quiet luxury mood board come to life. That’s my first thought when I enter the brand-new villa. It’s one of five perched at the highest point of the 15-hectare property that’s also home to Alba Thermal Springs and Spa. I remember meeting Kadi Morrisson, Alba’s Director of Sales & Marketing, at an industry event in 2024 as she excitedly revealed the renders of what was to become the luxury accommodation I’m now standing in. I can see that her excitement was completely warranted. This retreat is something special.

Location

The Sanctuary is located in the seaside town of Fingal on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. (Image: Supplied)

Tucked away on an idyllic seaside pocket of land in the Mornington Peninsula, The Sanctuary accommodation is the newest addition to Alba Thermal Springs and Spa, a 15-hectare bathhouse and wellness sanctuary fed by the region’s underground mineral springs. The seaside town of Sorrento, as well as world-class restaurants, wineries and pristine beaches, is all minutes away. It’s also an easy 90-minute drive south from Melbourne Airport, making it within reach of an interstate wellness weekend getaway.

Rooms and villas

The Sanctuary’s five luxurious stand-alone villas and two additional studio rooms opened in June 2025. I’m staying in one of three villas that feature an en suite with an oversized stone bathtub set in front of a floor-to-ceiling glass wall (villas 1-3 only). It means I’m treated to expansive views of the bay and native bushland while soaking in Alba’s signature bath salts – a blend of native Australian botanicals, moisturising oils and mineral-rich salts. Aesop amenities are also supplied in the shower and bathroom.

Glass doors open onto a private deck from the en suite and bedroom; the perfect place to sit with a cheese board and wine at the end of the day to watch the sunset or to stargaze come nightfall. And if you’re feeling in the mood for a stretch come morning, make use of the provided yoga mats and salute the sun at daybreak.

My second-favourite addition (after the bath) is the indoor log fireplace that is set of an evening by the concierge (they can be called to add another log before 10pm as needed). Listening to the crackle of the fire from the comfort of the king bed makes drifting off to sleep a breeze.

Find wine from 10 Minutes by Tractor in the villa’s bar. (Image: Supplied)

The extensive all-inclusive (minus champagne, cocktails and spirits) mini bar champions local businesses with wine from Ten Minutes by Tractor, St Andrews Beach Brewery beer, Peninsula Cold Press Juice Co. and Alba’s Signature tea. Snacks include Chappy’s kettle cooked chips, Choca Mama peanut brittle, pretzels and nude nuts. As well as still and sparkling water and T2 tea. An Illy coffee machine and pods are also included.

Style and character

Local design studio KWD in Mt Martha crafted the interiors from a soothing palette of muted hues – think every shade of cream imaginable. I’m greeted by soft afternoon light leaking through the chiffon curtains; it makes me feel like I’m sinking into a cafe latte-inspired dream. With accents of wood and black metal, as well as exquisite design details like the subtle silver sheath covering the bedside lights, this is understated luxury at its best. I never want to leave.

Facilities

Undoubtedly, one of the major drawcards of a stay at The Sanctuary is inclusive access to Alba Thermal Springs and Spa for each day of your stay, plus you get to enjoy one upgrade to a private pool (The Terrace, The Clouds or The Salts). Concierge transfers via buggy between your villa and the springs are also available – but it’s an easy walk if you don’t mind the hill up to the villas.

Alba Thermal Springs and Spa

The Terrace at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa

The Terrace is one of the private pools at Alba that guests get access to once during their stay. (Image: Supplied)

Opening in 2024, Alba’s pools and landscape architecture were designed by MALA Studio. The team transformed the expansive property into six regions through the thoughtful curation of over 60,000 native and endemic plants.

There are 34 pools, a mix of geothermal, cold plunge and herbal-infused botanical, that range in temperature and design – some to create a feeling of seclusion, while others invite social connection – all fed by natural geothermal mineral waters that flow from 550 metres below ground. I gravitate towards The Hemisphere, with its dry sauna, steam room, cold plunge and dreamy open-air pool called The Hide. I leave my robe at the entrance, slip into the sunken geothermal pool and immediately feel the tension from my travels melting away.

Inside, Alba has 22 spa treatment rooms, including a steam room, Vichy shower, and single or double massage rooms with a spa menu designed to renew, repair and recalibrate guests. The wristband that acts as a key to your villa also gives you access to the change room and bathhouse – just speak to reception on arrival. In addition to lockers and showers, the change rooms also feature a clever swimsuit drying spinner – I find this makes for a more comfortable dining experience (more on that below) in your robe minus wet swimmers.

Thyme Restaurant

Breakfast at Thyme by the springs is included. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Breakfast is included at the in-house restaurant Thyme throughout your stay. I opt for yoghurt panna cotta with toasted house granola topped with local honeycomb, fermented blueberries and berries. But I admit to having FOMO when I see my husband’s choice of poached eggs, Adelaide Hills bacon, layered thyme potato with roasted mushroom and fresh sourdough arrive at the table. Barista-made Little Rebel coffee, smoothies and cold-pressed juices, as well as tea, are also included.

The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the springs. It’s strongly encouraged to dine in the provided robe, which means you can easily go from soaking in the pool to dining and back again without needing to change.

Both The Sanctuary breakfast menu and The House menu for lunch and dinner were created by award-winning chef Karen Martini, with head chef Mario Di Natale at the helm. Expect fresh, healthy and flavour-driven dishes made with sustainability in mind. For dinner, my husband and I ordered the tuna crudo, scallop and prawn wontons for entrées and roasted cod and sake-braised beef short rib for mains to share with seasonal greens.

Does The Sanctuary have access for guests with disabilities?

The pools at Alba Thermal Springs and Spa are designed to welcome all guests, and a full accessible studio is part of The Sanctuary.

Is The Sanctuary family-friendly?

Guests of all ages are welcome at The Sanctuary, and rollaway beds or cots can be provided upon request. The springs require adult supervision for children aged under 16, and the private pools and spa are reserved for visitors aged 16 and over only. However, I didn’t see any children during my visit.

Details

Best for: A romantic retreat or indulgent girls’ weekend away

Address: 282 Browns Rd, Fingal, Victoria

Room rate: Prices start at $1300 per night for two guests in a Villa with bath, $1150 for Villa without bath.

Tips for visiting Alba Thermal Springs and Spa:

1. Pack waterproof footwear so you don’t have to walk on the cold paths barefoot (plus, footwear is required inside the restaurant).

2. Phones and smartwatches are not permitted – leave them in your locker or room.

3. The minerals in the water can cause jewellery to tarnish; lock them away in the in-room safe.

4. Bring a reusable water bottle and fill up at the drinking fountains – you will dehydrate quickly in the pools and saunas.