How to do the great Grampians road trip

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The Grampians road trip is the road trip with it all, but one you’ve probably never done before, writes Phil Hawkes. Melbourne (or Adelaide) to the Grampians is a drive that offers delicious mix of cute historic towns, wineries, luxury experiences and plenty of the great Australian outdoors too.

Looking for a short break from Melbourne or Adelaide? Done the Ocean Road before? Driven Gippsland? It’s time to head to the Grampians.

 

That was my situation. The result: four days’ and three nights’ touring through Victoria’s Western Districts of flat grazing lands, straight roads followed by curvy hilly terrain with craggy peaks and verdant valleys to admire.

 

It’s an easy drive, with many options for breaks along the way, and a variety of interesting accommodation choices on offer. There’s much to see and do. Here are my highlights:

Ballarat

1. The ideal first stop if you’re leaving from Melbourne. Well known for its Gold Rush history, heritage-listed Victorian buildings, beautiful parks and gardens, and Lake Wendouree.

 

2. Great coffee (this is Victoria), many choices. Aim for Lydiard Street and Sturt Street. Try a chilli hot chocolate at Harvest Food Store and Café.

 

3. Historic Craig’s Royal Hotel for lunch in the Victorian-era Gallery Bistro. Or try the legendary high tea.

 

4. The Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka for a history lesson, especially if you have kids. They’ll appreciate the interactive displays and the original Eureka flag.

 

5. Fill up with fuel on the outskirts of town – it’s much cheaper than where you’re going!

Next: Ballarat to Glenthompson 90 mins

Glenthompson

1. This quiet Glenelg Highway town is worth a break from the long, straight road.

 

2. The murals of St Peter’s Church are described, rather optimistically, as Victoria’s answer to the Sistine Chapel.

 

3. Try Grampians Pure Sheep Dairy for the best sheep cheese and yoghurt around. Talk to enthusiastic young farmhands Daniel or Ryan.

Haloumi at Grampians Pure Sheep Dairy
Haloumi stop: Grampians Pure Sheep Dairy (photo: Nicole Tujague).


Next:
Glenthompson to Dunkeld 15 mins

Dunkeld

Old Bakery Dunkeld Photo Nicole Tujague
Old Bakery Dunkeld: chocolate croissants to die for (photo: Nicole Tujague).

1. Be sure to explore the back streets of Dunkeld – you might be surprised at what you’ll find.

 

2. The Old Bakery serves genuine French pâtisserie and bread baked in the original 1886 oven. The chocolate croissants are to die for.

 

3. Dining at the highly awarded Royal Mail Hotel is a culinary experience to be savoured, especially the degustation menu.

 

Next: Dunkeld to Hamilton 30 mins

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Hamilton

1. The region’s biggest city, centre of the agricultural industry, was once known as “the wool capital of the world".

 

2. Ideal for an overnight stopover in one of several B&Bs. Try Mourilyan House in town or Pierrepoint Winery just south of the city.

 

3. Hamilton Art Gallery is rated as one of Australia’s finest regional collections, including the watercolours of famous English artist Paul Sandby.

 

4. The impressive William Guilfoyle-designed Botanic Gardens is an ideal spot for a picnic lunch or tea.

 

Next: Hamilton to Halls Gap 75 mins

Halls Gap – the heart of the Grampians

walking in the Grampians
Walking in a the Grampians wonderland.

Now known by its traditional Indigenous name Gariwerd, the Grampians National Park attracts visitors from all over the world for its natural beauty, plentiful wildlife and adventure sports.

Pinnacle Halls Gap Grampians National Park
Pinnacle eye’s view of Halls Gap, Grampians National Park.

1. Stop at the Brambuk Cultural Centre on arrival for park information, accommodation bookings and interactive displays of Indigenous and Colonial history.

 

2. Book a tour to some of Australia’s best rock art sites, such as Bunjil’s Shelter, and several other caves.

 

3. There are more than 160km of walking trails, including a 33km trek with overnight camping facilities. (We managed the 2km walk to Venus baths easily, but our more adventurous friends went on to Mackenzie Falls, which they said was spectacular).

 

4. Try canoeing, fishing, horse riding, quad biking. Kayaking on Lake Wartook is a special adventure for kids, and there are many abseiling sites for more extreme exertions.

 

5. A wide range of accommodation is available, from campsites to five-star luxury at Boroka Downs Retreat (in total seclusion, 6km from town, south west along Ararat-Halls Gap Road).

 

6. Its well-appointed chalets have log fires, spa bath, first-class breakfasts – and inquisitive wildlife at your door.

 

Next: Halls Gap to Great Western 30 mins

Brambuk Cultural Centre Grampians'
The Brambuk Cultural Centre for all your Grampians’ info needs.
rock art Bunjil's Shelter The Grampians
Preserved rock art, Bunjil’s Shelter, The Grampians (photo: Nicole Tujague).

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Great Western

With wineries dating back to the mid-1800s, this pioneer village is known as the birthplace of Australia’s sparkling wine industry. You’ll find many opportunities for local wine and cheese tastings in the area. Top choices include:

 

1. Best’s Winery, still a family-run business producing classic drops including award-winning Shiraz blends.

 

2. Seppelts Great Western, with labyrinthine cellars to explore and then taste the famous bubblies.

 

3. Grampians Estate, voted Best Small Cellar Door for wine and cheese tastings plus great coffee.

 

Next: Great Western to Beaufort 45 mins

Beaufort

Eurambeen Homestead, Beaufort
Homeward-bound accommodation option, Eurambeen Homestead, Beaufort (photo: Nicole Tujague).

On the Western Highway, it’s a pleasant village dotted with cafes and craft shops.

 

1. One of the state’s most picturesque wineries is nearby at Mt. Langi Ghiran. Taste the fragrant pinot noir.

 

2. Overnight in a restored 1850s country manor at Eurambeen Homestead with its three-acre garden designed by Edna Walling. The farmhouse roast dinners alone are worth the trip.

 

Finish: Back past Ballarat to Melbourne to edit the hundreds of photographs or videos you’ve accumulated…

Exploring Grampians rock formations (photo: Nicole Tujague).
More: Planning you next road trip? See Australia’s best driving holidays

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The Gold Rush town that’s become Victoria’s best country escape for foodies

    Jocelyn Pride Jocelyn Pride
    The well-preserved Gold Rush town where an idyllic country vibe meets the best of city living.

    Cafe culture

    ‘Slow down’ is the mantra of Tortoise Espresso, and it’s apt for anyone visiting town. This local coffee hangout was the brainchild of Lloyd Meadows, who at 16 started it as a hole in the wall of an old pub. Five years on, it graces a fine shopfront with a menu of around 60 different coffees. Other one-off centrally located daytime cafes, such as Saffs, Togs, Saint Florian and Lazy Bones, are tucked into historic buildings and serve creative menus featuring local produce. A personal favourite is Origini, where chef Luca Sartori brings a taste of northern Italy to his rustic restaurant. For the best banh mi outside Vietnam head to Super Hero, and the pastries at Johnny Baker are legendary.

    the Saint Florian Cafe, Castlemaine
    Saint Florian is one of many businesses tucked away in a historic building. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    On the town’s fringe you’ll find some treasured cafes: Blackbird. Grist, Doveton Corner Store, and the cosy Aitken’s Corner. The Mill precinct also brings another dimension to Castlemaine. Located directly opposite the beautiful Botanical Gardens, this once-derelict woollen mill is a hive of creativity and collaboration. Retaining an industrial feel, it is home to a myriad of 44 unique businesses, galleries and studios that stretch over the three-hectare site.

    Brilliant brews, bars and food

    diners at The Mill, Castlemaine
    The Mill is home to many local businesses. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michelle Jarni)

    The Mill is also home to one of Castlemaine’s bespoke breweries, Shedshaker Brewing Company and Taproom. Within the sensitively restored walls of the oldest part of the building (circa 1875), small-batch, handcrafted beer features alongside fine wholesome food and live music.

    A more recent newcomer to the brewing scene is Love Shack. Starting small as a laneway pop-up in 2021, visionaries Conna Mallett and Harry Cox were armed with a Melbourne beer culture pedigree, which helped them create a great new ‘pub’ that feels as though it’s been there since the 1850s. Other atmospheric bars and restaurants are dotted around town – Grafting Cellars for local wines by the pour; buzzy Mostyn Street Cellars; Table Records plays vinyl on weekends; and the quirky Maurocco bar is not to be missed.

    food and drinks at Love Shack Public Bar & Bistro, Castlemaine
    The nostalgic Love Shack Public Bar & Bistro serves comfort food. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    For food you’ll write home about, the hatted Bar Midland serves exquisite dishes from Victorian-only produce. The freshly renovated Wild is located in the original firestation, Voor Ouker specialises in Indonesian/Dutch fusion, and the Railway Hotel oozes English pub charm.

    the Theatre Royal, Castlemaine
    Theatre Royal is the longest continually operating theatre on the mainland. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    Much-loved Teatro Regio, found in the magnificent Theatre Royal, is the go-to for pizzas with a twist. As mainland Australia’s longest continually running theatre, this grand dame is also one of more than a dozen performance spaces that add to a rich and diverse entertainment and festival scene.

    pizza at Theatre Royal
    Dine before a show at Theatre Royal. (Image: Tourism Australia/Visit Victoria)

    Quirky country stays

    Quirky, authentic and perfectly located, the Midland Hotel is a private hotel that dates back to 1879. Each of the nine rooms at the Northern Arts Hotel is different and named in honour of an Australian artist. Castlemaine Boutique Accommodation also has a range of properties to suit all types of travellers.