A Road Trip Along The Great Victorian Bathing Trail

From the coast to the bush, a leisurely road trip along the Great Victorian Bathing Trail is a ticket to chill.

Ever come back from a trip feeling more frazzled than before you left? Whatever happened to chilled-out breaks that leave you feeling relaxed, rested and restored? Thankfully, Victoria is bringing back the bliss with a bounty of thermal bathing experiences from the bush to the sea connected by the Great Victorian Bathing Trail.

With Gippsland Lakes in the east, Hepburn Springs in the north, Mornington Peninsula down south and the western reaches of the Great Ocean Road, you could go wild and try them all on the mother of all road trips. Or, like me, you could choose the greatest hits of Victoria’s bathing scene to get your fill of restorative, mineral-rich waters over a few days.

Mornington Peninsula

Melburnians visit the Mornington Peninsula for many reasons, from beach walks to cellar door-hopping. But increasingly, wellness is enticing visitors to make the 90-minute drive south from the city.

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa, Fingal

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa in Fingal is Victoria’s hottest new open-air, geothermal bathing destination. Launched in late 2022, Alba is sleek, sophisticated and somewhat surprising. Stepping into the imposing, Brutalist-inspired main building (which could easily double as a modern museum or contemporary art gallery), I’m shown the way towards bathing bliss.

Alba building's main entrance — Alba’s design uses stone and concrete to express its setting in a rural context on the Mornington Peninsula. (Image: Visit Victoria)

After changing into a robe in the luxe change rooms (that are kitted out with lockers, showers and Dyson hair dryers), I sweat it out in the sauna then pool-hop for an hour or so, strolling up and down the landscaped property in search of my next hot haven. There are 22 pools of varying sizes, designs and temperatures (most are naturally heated to sit between 37°C and 41°C), but the views from the upper Cascades pool make it a stand-out.

a woman came out from the pool at Alba after taking a dip — One of a series of plunge pools at Alba, which is surrounded by drifts of native grasses. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You might not associate bathing in outdoor mineral springs with fine dining, but both concepts coexist at Alba. Melbourne chef Karen Martini has created a dining experience perfectly suited to the unique environment at Thyme restaurant. I can’t remember the last time I arrived at a nice restaurant with wet hair, sans make-up. But I see I’m in good company once I clock the other robe- and slipper-wearing diners.

a close-up shot of a dish at Thyme Restaurant — It’s Thyme for lunch. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The menu’s light, fresh dishes deftly walk the fine line between health and indulgence. There are lots of veggies and lean proteins, but you could also order yourself a sneaky schnitzel or a serving of fries. Thermal bathing is thirsty work. Fortunately, the drinks list is a mighty one. If you’re avoiding booze, order a herbal tea, chai latte, cold-pressed juice, mocktail, non-alcoholic wine or coffee from nearby roaster, Little Rebel. If you’re in the mood for a tipple, there are also wines, spritzes and cocktails on offer, including four different riffs on the martini.

After a veg-packed meal (and a cheeky glass of local white), I float up the grand, spiral staircase to the spa for a treatment that’s so good, I fall asleep mid-massage. Mission accomplished.

a man dipping in a thermal pool at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa — Alba is positioned in beautiful, landscaped gardens that reflect the wildness of the location. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Peninsula Hot Springs, Fingal

Just a few minutes down the road from Alba, which will add boutique accommodation to its offering in 2024, is Peninsula Hot Springs where I’m spending the night. A destination that has kickstarted a state-wide bathing renaissance since opening in 2005, the award-winning, bush-fringed hot springs have welcomed streams of folk from far and wide, all keen to tap into the benefits of balneotherapy.

two women dipping in one of the pools at Peninsula Hot Springs — Peninsula Hot Springs pools are surrounded by native bushland, grasses and reeds. (Image: Tourism Australia)

What began as a simple series of geothermal baths in the bush has grown to include a day spa, kitchen garden and glamping, so visitors like myself can stay overnight. Upon arrival, I change straight into my bikini and walk the winding path in search of a pool to slip into. It’s an overcast day, but the springs are packed with groups of friends chatting and laughing while unwinding.

a couple heading towards the thermal pool at Peninsula Hot Springs — With its bush-fringed geothermal pools, Peninsula Hot Springs has helped kickstart a state-wide bathing renaissance. (Image: Tourism Australia)

With more than 70 bathing and wellness experiences on offer, such as Nepalese massaging mineral showers, a reflexology walk and ice cave, I’m overwhelmed by choice. In the end, I ditch the spa map and dabble in many different pools containing trace minerals touted to reduce stress and improve ailments such as arthritis and skin conditions.

holding a tray of food on the table at Spa Dreaming Centre — Dine on nourishing fare at Spa Dreaming Centre. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a hearty yet healthy dinner in the Spa Dreaming Centre dining room, I retreat to my glamping tent to get an early night. Peninsula Hot Springs puts the ‘glam’ in glamping with a cushy king bed and underfloor heating. Listening to the distinct ‘bonk’ of eastern banjo frogs calling in the nearby wetlands, I nod off within minutes.

After waking at dawn to birdsong, I’m confident I’ve just experienced the most gloriously deep and rejuvenating slumber ever. And it appears I’m not alone, with an observational study conducted by RMIT University’s School of Health and Biomedical Sciences revealing that 82 per cent of bathers at Peninsula Hot Springs reported sleeping better after a visit.

My morning agenda includes a lazy breakfast of eggs, sourdough and coffee before another soak in the pools and a heavenly spa treatment. My once-tight shoulders never stood a chance against this schedule.

an aerial view of the plunge pools at Peninsula Hot Springs — Many of the plunge pools at Peninsula Hot Springs are set in peaceful surrounds. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Refuel in Sorrento

With lunch on my mind, I make the 20-minute drive to Sorrento, a town that had a moment in Australian pop culture in the mid-1990s with the release of a film called Hotel Sorrento and Tina Arena’s ballad Sorrento Moon (still a favourite with easy listening radio stations). It’s easy to see why the town has a song written about it. Sorrento has all the calling cards of a classic seaside holiday town. There’s a pretty wooden pier, sailing club and fish and chip shops. But it’s the grand, limestone pub overlooking the sea that’s calling my name.

coastal views at Hotel Sorrento — Hotel Sorrento offers views of the sea and sky. (Image: Threefold Social)

A landmark that’s stood since 1872, Hotel Sorrento is an institution. Owned by a local family for three generations, this heritage beauty is frequented by everyone from tradies getting together for knock-off pints in the front bar to tourists enjoying a coastal getaway in the upstairs accommodation. When I arrive, the dining room is abuzz with lunch crowds. Looking around at my fellow diners, seafood and wine seems to be the order of the day. But I can’t go past the winning combination of saganaki, figs and honey – a sublime dish that’s the next best thing after a trip to Greece.

the building exterior of Hotel Sorrento — Hotel Sorrento, established in 1872, is an iconic landmark in seaside Sorrento.

A breezy spot to throw back a few beers on a sunny afternoon, I’m reluctant to leave. If you’ve got time to explore the Bellarine Peninsula and beyond, head to Sorrento Pier and drive your car onto the Searoad Ferry. You’ll reach Queenscliff in about 40 minutes, which is way faster (not to mention more fun) than driving all the way around Port Phillip Bay.

a couple walking along the Sorrento Pier — Sorrento Pier provides access across the bay to Queenscliff via ferry. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Lon Retreat & Spa, Point Lonsdale

Mineral-fed soaking tubs beckon at Lon Retreat & Spa in Point Lonsdale, while Warrnambool’s geothermal waters wait near the end of the Great Ocean Road (more on that below). Otherwise, drive north back to Melbourne like I did (visiting a cellar door on the way home is almost mandatory in these parts, so factor in a stop at Red Hill, Shoreham or Merricks if you can).

the indoor pool at Lon Retreat & Spa — Soak in the mineral-fed tubs at Lon Retreat & Spa. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Hepburn Springs

While the Peninsula might have the new kids on the bathing block, up north is where you’ll find one of the originals. Just an 80-minute drive north-west of Melbourne Airport, Hepburn Springs is a slow-paced, peaceful town that feels so far removed from the hectic highway traffic that it takes a little while to switch gears. People have been travelling to the region seeking respite from the stresses of the Big Smoke for more than a century. And for good reason. Home to 80 per cent of Victoria’s mineral springs and Australia’s first ‘Mineral Reserve’ (created back in 1865), this corner of Victoria is paradise for lovers of down-to-earth wellness experiences.

Hepburn Spa Retreat

Checking into a Hepburn Spa Retreat villa , I activate relaxation mode immediately when I realise that the recently refurbished accommodation is truly self-contained. Absolutely everything has been thought of. There’s an air purifier, gas fireplace, two flat-screen TVs, comfy lounge, fully equipped kitchen (including a fridge loaded with breakfast provisions) and an oversized spa bath (complete with robes, slippers and bath salts). Thoughtful touches include a yoga mat, a supreme collection of herbal teas and a bedside notepad to commit your wellness goals to paper.

a look inside the villa at Hepburn Springs Escape — The Spa Escape is one of several accommodations you can stay in at Hepburn Spa Retreat.

The beauty of Hepburn Springs is that it’s small, so you can leave your car behind and explore on foot. You’re never far from a bushwalking trail here, like the 2.9-kilometre Argyle Walk – an easy loop I complete in less than an hour without sharing the track with another soul (except flocks of native birds and a solitary, shy echidna).

By night, the town is eerily quiet if you’re accustomed to the constant, low-humming buzz of the city. Just off the main street, I find The Surly Goat, a little restaurant doing big things with food and wine. Here you’ll be offered four courses that change from day-to-day.

Email ahead with your dietary requirements if you’re vegetarian, allergic to nuts or seafood, and dishes will be crafted to suit your needs. Otherwise, just sit back and let chef David Willcocks take the wheel (trust me, he knows what he’s doing). Every dish at this convivial hatted restaurant is an understated triumph, from a carefully constructed daikon roll to a deceptively simple dessert of Morningswood Farm strawberries with cream. Overhearing gushing words of praise coming from other diners confirms I’m not alone in this thinking.

Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa

Having a spa experience is obviously on my bingo card, so I make a beeline for Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa the following morning. Arriving early in the day is the key to success here.

a couple enjoying a relaxing dip at Hepburn Bathhouse — There are two main pools to experience in Hepburn Bathhouse. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There are two main pools, but the 90-minute Sanctuary Mineral Bathing experience is a more private affair. Stepping through the door into the private area, I hop between the hammam, aroma steam room and salt and magnesium pools.

people enjoying a dip in the wellness pool at Hepburn Bathhouse — Take in the views from the salt and magnesium pools. (Image: Visit Victoria)

A Fire & Frost Cryo facial in the day spa caps off the experience – I leave feeling a decade younger. Have I discovered the Fountain of Youth? The mineral-rich water is prized in these parts, and not just for bathing. Most local shops stock sparkling water from Daylesford and Hepburn Mineral Springs Co., a locally owned business bottling the region’s famous H2O. But before I leave, I fill my bottle with water pumped from one of the town’s mineral spring bores – the ultimate way to take a bit of Hepburn home.

Great Ocean Road

Deep Blue Hot Springs, Warrnambool

Towards the western end of the Great Ocean Road, Warrnambool’s Deep Blue Hot Springs is a top spot to decompress after a long drive. Here, the geothermal waters drawn from 850 metres below the surface are fed into a series of open-air rock pools and sensory caves that are open, day and night. Stay onsite in an ocean-view room at the Deep Blue Hotel to make the most of the scenic seaside locale.

an aerial view of Warrnambool and its surrounding hot springs — Warrnambool is a hot springs hotspot. (Image: Visit Victoria)

12 Apostles Hot Springs & Resort, Great Ocean Road

You’ll have to wait until 2026 to experience Australia’s biggest hot springs development. In addition to natural hot springs, there are plans for a wellness centre, amphitheatre, restaurant, bar, cafe and luxury eco-pod accommodation across the 78-hectare site.

Gippsland

Metung Hot Springs, East Gippsland

In the East Gippsland town of Metung, you can sink into a pool surrounded by native flora, slip into a barrel with a view, enjoy a massaging mineral shower or sweat it out like a Scandinavian in a hot sauna. A new lagoon precinct opens this year, including its largest pool yet, a cold plunge pool, geothermal showers and a floating sauna.

an aerial view of three girls dipping in Metung Hot Springs — Metung Hot Springs is set on a natural undulating site. (Image: Visit Victoria; Ben Savage)

With Metung being a four-hour drive from Melbourne, staying overnight at the springs’ own lagoon-side glamping accommodation is a genius move.

glamping tents by the river at Metung Hot Springs — Glamp at Metung Hot Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Phillip Island

Phillip Island Hot Springs

Slated to open later this year, this hotly anticipated development will give visitors yet another reason to make the trip across the bridge to Phillip Island, home to the world-famous penguin parade. Come to Phillip Island for the penguins; stay for some relaxation.

Video credit: Tourism Australia

From coast to mountains, hiking in Gippsland offers a stunning array of landscapes, with trails that take you deep into the region’s heritage.

I step out onto the sand and it cries out underfoot. Kweek! I take another step and there’s another little yelp. Screet! Picking up the pace, the sounds follow me like my shadow, all the way down to the water. It’s obvious how this spot got its name – Squeaky Beach – from the rounded grains of quartz that make the distinctive sounds under pressure.

For many, Wilsons Promontory National Park is the gateway to Gippsland , and the best way to explore it is by walking its network of hiking trails, from coastal gems such as Squeaky Beach through to the bushland, among the wildlife. But it’s still just a taste of what you’ll find on foot in the region.

Venture a bit further into Gippsland and you’ll discover the lakes, the rainforest, and the alpine peaks, each changing with the season and offering summer strolls or winter walks. Just like that squeaky sand, each step along these trails has something to tell you: perhaps a story about an ancient spirit or a pioneering search for fortune.

The best coastal hikes in Gippsland

sunset at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Wilsons Promontory National Park is a sprawling wilderness with many coastal bushland trails. (Image: Mark Watson)

Wilsons Promontory National Park (or ‘The Prom’, as you’ll end up calling it) is an easy three-hour drive from Melbourne, but you might ditch the car when you arrive, with much of the park’s 50,000 hectares accessible only by foot. From the inky water of Tidal River (dyed dark purple by abundant tea trees), I like the easy walks along the coast, among lichen-laden granite boulders, to golden beaches and bays.

a couple on Mount Oberon — Panoramic views from the summit of Mount Oberon. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

The trail to the panoramic views at the summit of Mount Oberon is a bit harder, up steep timber and granite steps, but it’s a popular 6.8-kilometre return. The more remote hikes are found through the open banksia and stringybark woodland of the park’s north, or along the multi-day Southern Circuit , which ranges from about 35 to 52 kilometres, with sunrises and sunsets, kangaroos and cockatoos, and maybe even whales.

a golden sand beach at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Walk ‘The Prom’s’ golden sand beaches. (Image: Tourism Australia/Time Out Australia)

You might also see whales on the George Bass Coastal Walk , even closer to Melbourne on the western edge of Gippsland. This dramatic seven-kilometre trail along the clifftops takes in sweeping views of the wild ocean, occasionally dipping down from grassy green hills to coastal gullies and a secluded beach. It also now links into the Bass Coast Rail Trail for an extra 14 kilometres.

Over at the eastern edge of Gippsland, in Croajingolong National Park, you can wander along the lakeshores beneath koalas and around goannas (I keep my distance since one chased me here!). For those who are even more adventurous, the park is also the starting point for the 100-kilometre Wilderness Coast Walk , usually done over seven days.

the Croajingolong National Park, Gippsland — Wander along the lakeshores in Croajingolong National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The best bush hikes in Gippsland

the Baw Baw National Park — The alpine heath of Baw Baw National Park. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Deep in the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine at Walhalla, mining guide Richard tells me how this small town in the mountains east of Melbourne boomed when prospectors found gold here in 1862. These days, you’ll find most of the town’s treasure – its heritage – above ground, with the Walhalla Tramline Walk a wonderful way to explore it.

Just seven kilometres long, the walk takes you through decades of Gold Rush history, following the original rail trail from lush bushland to the mining sites, and through the charming village of just 20 residents with its wooden cottages and old shopfronts adorned with turn-of-the-century advertising posters. Blazing a trail where trailblazers once opened up the region, this is also the starting point for the 650-kilometre Australian Alps Walking Track.

Nearby, Baw Baw National Park has walks through gnarled snow gums and alpine heaths that show off the colourful wildflowers in summer and the pristine carpet of white in winter. Several trails are perfect for snowshoes, including a 45-minute route from St Gwinear up to vast views across the Latrobe Valley.

Further up into the mountains, the Toorongo and Amphitheatre Falls Loop Walk is an easy 2.2-kilometre path that serenades you with the sound of flowing water as you pass mossy rocks and tree ferns en route to two sets of waterfalls cascading over boulders in the remote wilderness.

The best cultural hikes in Gippsland

the Mitchell River National Park, Gippsland — Hike the Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

Across a pool in a natural sandstone amphitheatre, deep within a cave behind a waterfall, it’s said the Nargun has its lair. A fierce creature, half human and half stone, that abducts children and can’t be harmed by boomerangs or spears, the story of the Nargun has been told around the campfires of the local Gunaikurnai people for generations.

As a culturally significant place for women, hikers are asked not to go into the Den of Nargun, but a 3.4-kilometre loop walk leads you through a rainforest gully to the entrance where you can feel the powerful atmosphere here in Mitchell River National Park , along Victoria’s largest remaining wild and free-flowing waterway.

the bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park — Bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

The Den of Nargun is part of the Bataluk Cultural Trail , a series of important traditional Gunaikurnai sites through central Gippsland. Another location is Victoria’s largest cave system, Buchan Caves Reserve, with trails to important archaeological sites of human artefacts up to 18,000 years old. The FJ Wilson Interpreted Walk includes the naturally sculpted white limestone steps of the 400-metre-long Federal Cave, while the Granite Pools Walk goes among tall timber and moss-covered gullies.

the ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park — The ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park. (Image: Josie Withers)

Also important to the Gunaikurnai people is Tarra-Bulga National Park , known for its ancient myrtle beeches and enormous mountain ash trees. Just 40 minutes return, the Tarra Valley Rainforest Walk offers a taste of this verdant landscape, while the Grand Strzelecki Track takes you deep into the lost world of forest giants on an epic 100-kilometre trail rich with tradition.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the WildernessRetreats in The Prom — Wilderness Retreats in The Prom. (Image: Christian Pearson)

Wilderness Retreats in Wilsons Promontory offers glamping-style tents with luxurious queen beds. Star Hotel is a reconstruction of a Gold Rush-era hotel from 1863 in the heart of heritage Walhalla. Caves House is a historic three-bedroom house with views over the Buchan River.

Eating there

the Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — Enjoy a post-hike lunch at Carrajung Estate. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Kilcunda General Store serves great coffee and meals of local produce at the George Bass Coastal Walk. Alpine Trout Farm is located near Toorongo Falls in Noojee. Fish for your own lunch and barbecue it with the provided cookware.

Carrajung Estate is a short drive from Tarra-Bulga National Park. The winery’s restaurant offers a seasonal menu of regional ingredients and you can stay at The Lodge.

a seafood feast at Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — The table is set for a seafood feast at the estate.